Beautiful line of pockets leading leftward toward an alcove with a chain anchor.  Clip the bolt just above and left of the chain anchor and continue on through easier climbing for 5 more bolts to the top.  Lower to the ground with a 70 meter rope, or lower twice with a 60 meter.  The guidebook indicates if you continue to the top anchor, it is 5.12a; but I do not concur.  I felt the difficulty was in the first section with the top being much easier.  The entire shooting match felt like 5.11b/c.  Several others I spoke with at the crag felt the same.

Pocketline to the Moon

Tramp Stamp

The Infidels

Robbed

Heretic Wisdom

Treebeard

Tanker Wave

Pussycat

Unknown Renown

Resurrection

Indulgence

Media Squeezer

Going Nowhere

Bastard Stepchild

Panty Raether

Holbytla

Lend Me an Ear

Afterbirth

Solid Delicacy

Wandering Wanda

Rush to Judgement

Blinking Cowboy

Rhinopotamus

Hanging with Mr. Butt Hutt

Re-Do

Casting Aspersions

Combines the two cruxes of Infidels with the amazing middle section of Hand Party. Perhaps the best 13a on the wall? Probably tied for sustainedness with Pussycat. Do the first boulder of Infidels, go right at the fourth draw, and traverse back into the top crux of Infidels.

A crux boulder just off the ground leads to easier face climbing which is a bit tricky and hard to read.

While not quite as classic as some of the other routes on the left side of wailing wall this route is well worth doing.  A distinct bouldery crux and immaculate limestone crimping up high characterize this line.  After climbing the low angle somewhat chossy face for two bolts, tackle the bouldering crux on pinches, sidepulls, and finger locks.  After the crux get a good rest on moderate climbing and tackle the thin face above with pumpy big moves leading to the anchors.

There are several variations and linkups to this route.  If you traverse right at the 4th bolt, and finish on the right anchors over a bulge it is "Goin Stealin 13b".

If you traverse right at the 4th bolt, climb the right bolt line until the last bolt and anchor of Infidels it is "Goin Nowhere 13a".

Climb up a few bolts of moderate terrain to a ledge. Climb a steep boulder problem off the ledge, and then continue up easier terrain to a rest below a final headwall crux in perfect creamy white rock. Varied, great movement and very high quality. Best 12c on the wall?

This route climbs the blunt arete around the left corner from Resurrection. Begin by trending up and right, and follow worsening crimps and pockets that just keep coming as you pass back and forth from right to left side of the arete. Save some strength for a challenging top out on grey limestone. Without a definitive crux move, expect to be pumped. If you climb 5.12 and you are in South West Utah (or the United States for that matter) this route is not to miss.

Couple boulder problems back to back... Left knee bar... Then jugs!! :-) super fun thuggy!

A mega-classic and unusual for the area (and limestone climbing in general). Tanker Wave takes the left-facing, left-leaning sharp arete that divides the upper terrace of the Anti-Theme Wall (see Location section) from the main sector. This is a stunning feature that climbs as well as it looks.

Begin right of the arete and climb through some burly reaches on good pockets to gain a stance just underneath the arete. A tricky and wild sequence gets you up onto the arete which is then followed all the way to the anchors.

This route alone is worth the trip to the wall.

Of all the 13a's of the Wailing Wall and The Cathedral, this was my personal favorite.

Start of in a dihedral that turns into a bulbous arete followed by a beautiful slab after good rest. The crux doest let up until a rest a the base of the overhanging arete on a jug.Then tackle the redpoint crux (probably easier than lower section) to pull onto a slab. Don't let your guard down just because your finally on your feet. Passing the last 2 bolts is around 11+ friction slab climbing!

This classic climbs some of the best gray limestone on the Wailing Wall.  Like "Holbytla 13a" but without the difficult crux.

Start on low angle climbing up gray limestone, in a large right facing corner.  Climb through multiple techy cruxes in the first 2/3 of this route.  Above the angle and difficulty decreases but it stays engaging to the chains.

Begin this stellar route with ~20 feet of moderate climbing up to a good rest and a comfortable clip. From here a difficult undercling move with multiple beta options brings you to the meat of the climb. Follow a slightly left trending corner of beautiful blue-grey limestone on interesting pinches and crimps to a sustained finish. This route is pumpy for the grade and climbs an amazing section of stone- definitely one of the best climbs at the Wailing Wall.

This is a fantastic route! Do a funky start off the ramp to a big undercling that you match. From here, steep climbing with powerful moves leads you into a stemming rest at the 7th bolt. Stand on your feet and shake it out, then climb a vertical, techy finish on bullet stone for 2 more bolts with a finicky, heartbreaker final move to the anchors.

A great little pitch up the central groove/corner of the large white wall at the center of the Anti-Theme Wall (see Location section). This is the best warm-up in the area and has great movement and rock despite being short.

Tough to see holds lead up the obtuse open book at the center of the wall to a good stemming rest. The climbing eases for the upper half of the pitch.

Begins off the slab on the left side of the Wailing Wall. Just left of Re Do.

Climbs sustained at 11+/12- with great movement up to a very sustained crux for the last 3 bolts where the rock turns to grey. The crux has small sculpted pockets and pinches and no great hold to clip the chains.

A star for the last 15' of climbing on nice stone at the top of the wall, but no stars for the first 75% of the route which is fun movement on choss.

Begin below a vague white arete on the right end of the Anti-Theme Wall (see Location entry), a bit right of the main white wall. Climb choss to the arete, step right and up to an undercling, pull up blindly through a roof on sharp holds, and access the upper grey goods which is, unfortunately short-lived.

Holbytla means hole dweller in a language created by J.R Tolkien.

The route begins with 40 feet of mediocre 5.11 technical climbing up to a rest below a beautiful, 25 foot section of perfect blue stone.  Skipping the crux bolt (unless you are super strong), sprint through a series of water polished pinches, pockets, slopers and edges to a jug and finish on a flawless 5.10 slab for another 25 feet.

While this route doesn't see much traffic it makes for a good warmup or cooldown once you've climbed the other routes.

Start ~15' right of Pocket line, aiming for a small flake system 10' up.  Pull on some sharp crimps thru the start, to some wandering easier climbing.  Above encounter the crux involving techy sloping wierdness.  After a nice rest, deal with the awkward finish which involves leaving a nice ramp and climbing rightwards through the final overhang.  The last bolt is hard to clip, but keeps you from ledging out on the ramp below.

While not as stunning or classic as it's neighbor "Heretic Wisdom" this line is still worth doing.  While it doesn't look like much from the ground, the rock is great and the movement intriguing.

Climb up easy ground for a few bolts before hitting the powerful and techy crux.  Climb thru several bolts of engaging climbing before encountering a good rest and easier terrain to the anchors.

Solid Delicacy is the central line of the upper, lefthand terrace of the Anti-Theme Wall (see Location section).

Begin with a shared start with Rhinopotomus and move right at the third bolt (consider skipping/back-cleaning the third bolt)... Two closely-spaced bolts (the first is a spinner) mark the entry into the meat of the climbing which is characterized by having thin feet, lots of side pulls, and very hard-to-read sequences. The rock is perfect and the climbing relentless with not much in the way of rests, but it isn't really one you'll be writing home about. Still, a worthwhile route.

As the name suggests this climb wanders up some great stone with a lot of variety and excellent movement.

Begins right of Re Do (but shares the same starting 3 slab bolts - most opt to skip clipping these or unclip on the way up) with some steep moves off the slab moving right into a big hole. Then up and right to a crux move over a right facing corner feature. Slabs out for a bit to steeper jugs at the finish.

Begins with a harder boulder, technical face climbing ensues with good rests. A bit wandery in the middle, I went to the mini dihedral that you use on Wandering Wanda, then back right, then up. The crux is high on the wall, pulling thin slab moves. As good as the other 12cs, but a much different style.

Fun, moderate climbing gets you to a left facing flake system.  Get a good rest below the flake, and then start some fun, bouldery CRACK climbing.  Good finger locks, hand jams, and side pulls get you to the anchors.  Great moves, awesome rock.

Boulder problem start on perfect blue limestone with a nice rest to a mantle finish

Right side of the cave sits this short ish route. Just to the left of sharp 11b. A few closely spaced bolts off a ledge lead to an undercling and sequential moves on sharp edges and pockets a little hard to read. Rest on large hold then move up through steep runnels and fins to top. Seemed easy for its given 12c grade

Begin by following three bolts up an easy, bulging grey slab.

Next, start the technical journey up the slightly overhanging wall past varied climbing through pods, sidepulls, crimps, and pinches to a technical crux in beautiful grey rock, consisting of a dropknee and two shallow pockets.

From here it is fantastic climbing over beautiful french-esque rock to anchors.

Slabby stemming route with all the handholds facing the wrong way. If you want a leg workout do this route.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Wailing Wall