West Arete is an obscure backcountry Sierra route that deserves more traffic. It takes its path up one of the most complex and intimidating mountain faces in the range, the west/southwest side of Mt. Winchell. Climbing this route is a considerable commitment and a great adventure for an experienced party. Despite it's Grade III, 5.8 rating and understated description of difficulties listed in a popular guidebook, we found 4th-5th class approach, incredible exposure, steep terrain, and eleven long (150+ feet) and mostly sustained pitches, only a couple of which were easier than 5.7. Most of the pitches included at least one 5.7+ section while two stretches felt like 5.9. Hence, this route is not recommended for 5.8 trad leaders. Falling and getting injured on this route will present a major rescue challenge. So, don't fall!

This route (or one of its flavors) was first climbed by prolific Galen Rowell and Warren Harding in May 1976. It features mostly clean rock and varied climbing: steep face moves on positive holds, pumpy liebacks, jamming, stemming, knife edge ridge traversing and chimneys. It maintains its sustained nature throughout and ends on the northwest ridge of the mountain approximately 100' below the pointy summit. Protection is good: lots of nut-eating cracks and opportunities for smaller cams. Belay stations are usually comfortable. It's most striking characteristic, which, in my opinion, makes it classic, is that it unravels in front of you as you progress. Once you gain the arete, just follow the path of least resistance.

Instead of giving a detailed pitch by pitch description, I'd list route highlights and give pointers that will help to climb the route while maintaining its adventurous nature.

Once you rope up, go up and left through flakes and crack systems. First two pitches will feature stretches of 5.8 and 5.9 climbing. We found the crux to be on the 2nd pitch where you have to lieback a finger crack up a steep face and stem on insignificant footholds for approximately 20 feet. At first, it will not seem that you're climbing on an arete. However, after the second pitch, this will change. Eventually, you will find yourself tip-toeing on a knife edge and walking on a foot-wide ridge (not recommended for people with vertigo problems). One particular section of the ridge is so sharp, you have to crawl past it on all fours. Approximately half way up, there is a steep and intimidating gendarme. It may be possible to bypass it on the right (we didn't try) or climb on its left side up a very steep face (scary!) with sloping holds and thin cracks. Exposure here is tremendous. As you near the top of the gendarme, there will be a committing move above pro that goes at 5.8+. Past this move, you will regain the ridge proper for easier climbing. Don't forget to occasionally look around and enjoy this outrageous place. On the upper half of the route, it should be easier to bypass certain difficulties on the right side of the arete. When the southwest chute (to your right) comes to its end below the summit headwall, look for a near-vertical chimney/crack system on the right side of the arete. It will place you near the intersection of West Arete and Northwest Ridge. Continue up and right Northwest Ridge for a couple more pitches until the summit.

West Arete

East Arete

Southwest Chute

McKenzie's Arete

A really fun route with a great finish.

Scramble up boulders in the righthand chute on the southeast side of the peak. This becomes increasingly steeper and narrower until it reaches the shoulder of the arete proper. Scramble along the basically horizontal knife-edged section to the summit pyramid.  A chute on the left brings you onto the miniscule summit.

Winchell from the SE

About six years ago in my search for undiscovered Sierra classics I came across the SW Chute in Secor, rating "class 4-5". Misha's

W Arete route description

re-inspired me to check out this line, as it joins the spectacular W Arete past the more difficult sections. My friend Chris K gave me rave reviews on the W Arete, but I wasn't sure I wanted to onsight solo it after hearing Chris' description and especially after reading Misha's. I figured the SW Chute would be a good compromise.

Based on a Roper and Waddell variation (also described by Secor) that bypasses the bottom section I was expecting to find 5th class only in the first 400 ft, the rest class 4. Instead I found some very exposed mid-5th (5.6ish) on the arete, not including my variation of gaining the arete early.

Trailhead

From the town of Bishop, head west on W Line Street (highway 168 W). Go ~14.7 miles and turn left on S Lake Rd. At ~7 miles the road ends at the trailhead. Just before the parking lot the road splits, the right going to the boat ramp and the left to the trailhead. Note that some of the parking places are reserved for daytrippers.

one of the many photo ops along Bishop Pass trail (Mt Goode pictured)

Amenities

There are pit toilets and bear boxes at the trailhead. Camping along S Lake Road is in designated areas only. Primitive camping is available off of 168 unless otherwise posted. Manor Market (3100 W Line St) is the last gas and real grocery store as you leave town.

Red Tape

A permit is required for overnight trips between 1 May and 1 Nov. As of this posting, 14 of 36 permits are held for walk-ins, the rest reservable. Contact the White Mountain Ranger station in Bishop (798 N Main St, Bishop, CA 93514 760.873.2500) or the Inyo National Forest website for more details. Obvious places to camp include Bishop Lake and Dusy Basin, but options are plentiful.

Dusy Basin

Approach

From the trailhead (9820') hike 6.0 miles on the main trail to Bishop Pass (11,972'). There are plentiful water sources along the way. Water treatment is recommended due to the number of human, canine and equine visitors. The trail will drop down to Dusy Basin; instead contour SE off-trail along the base of Mt Agassiz toward Thunderbolt Pass. There may be a faint climbers trail and cairns, but it's pretty difficult to get lost. Look for some low white cliffs at the base of Mt Winchell. The routes starts just to the right.

The Route

Starting just to the right of the white cliffs ascend the headwall into the broad chute. There are several ways to go with varying difficulty. Continue up the chute until it pinches off, then go left to gain the W Arete.

variation 1 (per Secor): Instead of starting in the chute, climb a wall several hundred feet left of the SW Chute.  After ~400 ft traverse right across the W Arete, continuing into the SW Chute proper.

variation 2: For more ridge traversing gain the ridge after the second major tower where the angle eases up. Note that this is the second prominent tower as viewed from the chute, not as for the start described by Misha.

Continue up the W Arete until the NW Ridge joins in from the left. Take the NW Ridge to the summit. To keep it ~5.6 you may need to deviate slightly from the most direct line up the ridge, most often on the right.

variation for more ridge running

Starting from the prominent gully north of the main Mt. Winchell formation, ascend the left-hand arete to the north summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mt. Winchell