Start in the corner then move out left onto the face. after a ledge halfway you will encounter a bouldery crux that gains the arete, lay this back to gain a jug and another hidden bolt above, continue to bolted anchor

Vortex

Juaq's Crack

Tradtex

The Alchemist

Start up steep blocky roof, then layback the finger splitter. Continue up into corner to gain very LOOSE chossy ledge. Finish up short cracks to dead sage. Walk off or set up toprope with BIG sling or xtra rope around big block.

Face climb the first three bolts of Vortex then step left into .75 crack in corner. Shares anchor with Vortex

Start in the same corner as Vortex but move up and right. Powerful, steep, mini laybacks and pockets lead up to a rest then move up through an awkward slot.

A short compact basalt cliff with about 25 routes. Expect mostly sport climbs with a handful of trad cracks.  A good warm up for The Solar Asylum, as it gets the sun earlier and has easier/shorter routes. Climbable all winter, plenty of afternoon sunshine. Morning shade in summer.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The New New Buffalo