A well protected crack on good rock. Touted by the Sandia Rock guide as "The best 5.8 in the Sandias". The crack begins at the right end of the formation and continues to a right facing dihedral. Midway up this dihedral (not far past a piece of fixed pro- an old stuck cam), you will step left, out of the dihedral, and onto the face. Continue up the crack system to the top of the climb.

Estrellita

Beat Around the Bush

Clean Sweep

Dom's Day Out

Dom's Day Out climbs the techy slab face between Estrellita and Beat Around the Bush. The start is somewhat contrived, avoiding the prominent jug and crack features on the adjacent routes--hence only 3 stars. At about the 30/40 foot mark, the climbing becomes more intricate and stays unique from the other climbs until joining the top of Estrellita after it turns the corner up high. Technical side pulls and high steps abound, along with crafty gear placements at just close enough intervals to keep the whole outing sane (and exciting! )  

  This route has likely been toproped before, but I discussed it with Bryan Pletta and we felt it had likely not been lead. If anyone knows of a prior lead ascent, I would gladly update the info.

When combined with Estrellita these two 1-pitch routes are great for a leader breaking into the 5.8 range. If necessary an anchor can be set by carefully scrambling up the back of the formation. 

  The route starts 5 feet left of the more popular Estrellita.  Follow a left tending crack , past a bush to a small roof.  Once over the roof follow a system of cracks to the top of the formation, where a belay can be set.  This belay is shared with Estrellita.

Far left (north) side of the rock formation of the clean face near the corner. Slabby face climb for the most part. Can start at the crack to the right of the first bolt, or use the dihedral, traversing to the right to clip the first bolt (second variation easier). At the top of the crack before launching onto the face, I have been told one can use a small nut or tcu. Though, I did not find this helpful. Clip bolts along the thin face to the top. Tricky!

Description

Protection

Routes in Estrellita