P1

: Start on the arete moving past a few bolts and small TCU's to a ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10-

P2

: Crank steep bouldery move off of the ledge, tricky slab awaits you after pulling this, all bolts to a 2 bolt anchor on a sweet ledge. 5.11+/12a

P3

: Climb up and right into the obvious corner, bring handsized gear, aim for the " 1/2 softball" jug, clip a bolt at the lip, throw a sweet travserse around the corner to a devious vertical crux. 5.12-. Rap from the top anchor, join the raps on

Territory of the Mad

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Cleveland Steamer

Question of Insanity

Territory of the Mad

Yogini

A nerve-wracking, thin, technical, and delicate trip from the anchors to the first bolt leads to some hard, painful pulling on tiny edges with desperately suspect feet up to a hidden clipping jug for the second bolt. Easier terrain through another bolt and then another head-scratching bit past the fourth and last bolt.

After the last bolt head a bit right into the obvious crack which protects well with medium to large nuts and cams (an orange metolius protected well the opening moves to get established up in the crack). Somewhat burly liebacking with less-than-stellar feet for 30 feet or so and then some 15-20 feet of easier but unprotected climbing to the chains.

Like many other Ibex routes, this is a route that requires some creative Yogini type poses to climb it at the noted grade and I think you will find it very enjoyable. Laybacks to mantles to thin face to gaston to arrow poses, it has alot to offer! May be climbed in one long pitch, but beware of rope drag.

Pitch #1: Climb a few typical Ibex bulges past 4 bolts to a two-bolt quasi hanging belay or belay out right in the slot. 5.10, 20m.

Pitch #2: Crimps and balancy edges and finger pockets up a steepish wall to a slab and another tricky step past 2 bolts to a two-bolt belay. 5.10b, 35m.

Rappel the route. A top two-bolt belay and a couple of new bolts have been recently added.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Madness Buttress