After clipping the anchor of Prisoner Of War I, continue traversing out right between roofs through the beautiful golden streak. It was the hardest sport route in Northwest California before he added two more routes of the same grade to the wall. Ethan pulled this thing together in the warm off-season with tries in the cooler temps of early morning and evening, with relaxing river cool-downs in between.

Prisoner Of War II

Pigs in Space I

Holy Grail

Super Crimpy Slabalicious Finger Tendonitis

Start off the top of the pile of chossy rock on the left side of the wall. Transition onto the solid holds by the second bolt and find the best crimpers into the dihedral. The crux seems to be transferring from the dihedral to the exposed arete. Move up on decent holds to a glorious jug then cruise to the finish.

Absolutely and unquestionably classic! ...That is after the junky first "pitch" of course.

The route can be done in two pitches, or better yet, as one long one. If doing it in one stretch, back clean your first two bolts on the approach pitch, with your belayer 30' down and right of the start of the climb.

P1. (5.6) Traverse some choss past three bolts to an anchor below the beautiful, soaring headwall. 40'

P2. (5.13a) Climb past, and back-clean a bolt off right to reach your true first bolt off left. The crux comes at the fourth bolt with hard sidepulls, then keep cranking through excellent crimps on your way to several large holes, and one hole/cave large enough you can crawl in to cop a rest before the finish.

The wall stays in the shade until 11am

Right up the center of the large triangular slab on the Double Overhangs wall. After the slab, follow some big jugs over a steep section to clip anchors in the roof. Lots of technical bits and some good cranking on the slab, but it's all well protected. Get at it!

Description

Protection

Routes in 4. Double Overhangs