Start in the dihedral just left of the

5.9 crack

. The dihedral section is very technical and takes you up to the ledge. From here, the climbing gets much steeper as you follow jugs up the overhanging seam. This route finishes on the ledge about halfway up the wall. The extension is a closed project.

Due to its gradually increasing steepness and bolts, this route makes for the best warm-up in the area.

Keys of Death

Winds of Testing

Wrath of the Lamb

Expatriate

Liken I

12 Gauge Rain

Blood Bought Bride

Unknown 5.9 crack

Seven Thunders

There are a few cracks below the big overhang and to the left. They end at a bolted anchor. This route climbs the crack on the right.

Winds of Testing is a really nice, long, exposed moderate in a beautiful setting.

P1: 5.10b. Start on a ledge right below a lone bolt. Pull a couple difficult moves at the bolt before climbing up a crack system that provides plentiful gear options. Move left around a bulge and up to the 2 bolt anchor on the belay ledge.

P2: 5.11a. Go straight up the face past two bolts and into a beautiful layback crack. From here, do an easy runout to the bolted headwall and crux of the route. Two bolts protect the beautiful, overhanging crux. Trees or cracks can be used to build an anchor on top.

Climb the 5.9 up to the ledge as for

BBB

, and then move out left. A strenuous section through an overhanging hand-crack leads to more steep, powerful climbing and then some easier terrain to top out.

This is a great climb.  However, the gear down low is in rock of suspect quality.  Be solid at the grade if attempting an onsight.  Probably 2.5 stars due to this fact.

The route starts in a hand crack through Pegmatite.  The PG-13 rating is for the starting section, because the crack is formed by some hollow sounding rock.  There are some solid sidepulls to the right of the crack that help you from pulling too hard and make this section of climbing fairly easy.  Be mindful of the rock quality when placing your gear.  Just below the small roof above the end of the pegmatite, there is a funky large nut placement in a shallow trough that protects the move to the quality stone above.

From the good stance at the flake below the first bolt, there is a good small nut placement that protects the committing moves above.  The holds on the face are hard to see, making this a difficult and intimidating climb to onsight.

The name comes from the fellows who decided to shoot trap over our heads from the top of the cliff while we were establishing this line.

To the right and around the corner from

Liken I

is a short overhang with jugs.  12 Gauge Rain fires up through this overhang to a bolt and continues on above with gear and bolts protecting you along the way.  An optional 1.5 inch cam protects the moves to the first bolt.

Finish on the

Liken I

anchors.  There is a random bolt placed next to a perfect gear placement up high on the route.  Skip this bolt and place gear.

Blood Bought Bride is a superb line in a stunning position at the top of the Amphitheater wall.

Start by climbing

Unknown 5.9

being careful to trend left toward the end to reach a ledge beneath the first bolt of BBB. Ditch your gear at the ledge, and fire through committing and exposed moves to the top. This line will leave you breathless and wanting for more.

The overhanging nature of the line makes it a great place to take big whips and test yourself at the grade.

On the right side of the amphitheater there is a very inviting, broken face.  Start in the obvious, splitter, hand crack that turns to the left about 20 feet up.  Follow this continuous crack to its end, and then move up and right to a broken crack with a couple of pins.

There is currently 1 bolt (new) on this route.  Not sure why.

There are anchors at the top of the cliff.  A single rope rap to the

Liken I

anchors and one more rap gets you to the ground.  Or walk off.

Seven Thunders is a long, fun pitch with a steep, powerful crux. Start at the base of the crag, and climb up easy climbing to a big ledge. Climb up the easy, right-facing dihedral for a few feet, and then clip a bolt up off the ledge. Then traverse right into the crack system that takes you all the way to the top. A hand crack leads to steep, laybacking, finger crack and then eases up a little before some technical face moves. The route finishes on a large, obvious ledge at a bolted anchor.

From here, you can either rap or do a short, easy (30 feet, 5.4) pitch to the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Amphitheater Area