This unaesthetic route is NOT recommended as a quick approach to the East Ridge of Wolf's Head. It is more difficult than the class 4 (or 5?) gully below the notch between Pingora and Tiger Tower, which is just to the climber's right of South Gully.

Pitch 1 (5.4): Climb 185' up the gully to a big, comfortable ledge on climber's left of the gully. Mostly class 4 with a few easy class 5 moves.

Pitch 2 (5.5): Continue 185' up the gully and belay below a series of steep flakes. Mostly class 2-4 with several short and easy class 5 sections.

Pitch 3 (5.6): Climb 100' up the left side of steep flakes (moderate class 5) and continue up easier terrain (class 2-4) to the ridge just above the notch between Pingora and Tiger Tower.

Pitch 4 (5.0): Simulclimb or free solo 250' to the summit. Mostly class 3-4 with a few easy class 5 moves.

Descent to valley south of Wolf's Head: Downclimb class 4 (or 5?) gully between Pingora and Tiger Tower.

Descent to East Ridge of Wolf's Head: Downclimb 30' of exposed class 4 and rappel twice (both only 25') off natural anchors. Climb a short 5.0 section and continue 250' of class 4 along the ridge to the saddle between Tiger Tower and Wolf's Head.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Tiger Tower