Start up a couple easy steps to the very narrow crack. Place tiny nuts here and go for it, making odd scumming moves up the corner until you can reach the bomber horizontal. Get some gear here and pull hard into the crack behind the detached pillar (nuts are better than cams here). Once on top, follow the last few moves of Patrick's Dihedral to the shared anchor.

Sheesh

Verbal

Identity Crisis

Tecnu

Into the Black

Urushiol

Patrick's Dihedral

Jacksons Daring Deeds

Talk, Talk, Talk

Mental Crisis

Get up into a wide slot and shimmy your way up as it narrows dramatically. Plug good gear before launching into the thin crux sequence. At a stance above this, feather in small gear before pulling through the tenuous slabby section to another stance. A few easy moves and you're at the anchor.  

Sheesh (10c, spicy gear) to the right can be setup for top-rope from the same anchor.

Step up into the right side of a scoop with an orange scar in the upper curve, where the first bolt is. Pull around the right side of this, then back left to the next bolt and triangular incuts. Pull off these small holds and make a long reach to latch the positive edge of the crack on the right. Sidestep onto the slab and continue up easier rock to a stance. At the last bulge, search for good edges and pull stylishly onto the ledge. Step left to the anchor shared with Talk Talk Talk to the left.

Make your way awkwardly up to the first set of rails and clip the first bolt below the overhang-block. Get up to this and duck left. Clip the second bolt from a secure stance. Make a deceptively hard move onto the slab above. Features abound, but the route gets spicy from here. Work your way up to the third bolt, then gun it through the easiest section with a fairly long but safe runout. Get gear in before the upper bulge, where the route joins Into the Black for the final thought-provoking move. A couple steps and you're at the anchor.

Step up on top of a boulder behind the bush and then trend back left on perfectly ergonomic holds to a stance. Scope out the sharp outer edge of the crack, place gear deep inside of it, and use the undulations to make upward progress to the first bulge. Fiddle in some gear then pull the bulge, which requires a little trickery. Once on the sloping ledge, plug a 3" cam then wiggle up through the slot in the next bulge, snagging jugs that require a bit of a reach up and to the left. Victory romp to the anchors.

Start up the thin crack, finding feet where they exist, and getting your tips in the crack. Look for holds out right to ease the awkwardness. Once you're at the piton things ease up a bit, and the crack widens for some good hand-jams and flake-jugs. Step left around the slight bulge on big edges and pull up to the midway ledge. Make another awkward move off of this ledge and move left onto the slab. Set yourself up below the final bulge and find your sequence. Once on this ledge, a final easy move delivers you to the anchors shared with Identity and Mental Crisis, both worthy top-ropes if you're keen.

Bouldery moves up through some funky holds and into the notch below the roof. Trust the flake and step left, getting your hands into the crack and smearing your feet in a small dish. Contort yourself and step left, reaching for the far-off jug. Latch it, make a fun rock-over around the corner, and layback up to a stance. Continue up the tight-hands crack to another stance below the overhanging hand crack in the dihedral. Enjoy this sensational but all-too-short section of bliss until it ends at a nook with a good stemming stance.

Stem your way through the dirty corner and make your way right over the bulge, straight to the Patrick's Dihedral anchor

Captivating, majestic, inspiring: these are not adjectives you are likely to hear when people bring up Talk, Talk, Talk. A brutal little climb that will have you regretting that salad you skipped in favor of pizza and cider the night before. Lithe boulderers with crimping skills will do well, most others will get spanked. Myself included. 

 Between the dirtyness, enhanced hold, and condensed climbing, I though 1.5 stars was about right. Certainly let me know if you think otherwise.

Stick-clip the high first bolt. Boulderers will especially enjoy the wild, overhanging sequence up onto the face. From here, the real difficulties begin. Work your way out right, somehow working those feet up onto the good features. The holds are tiny but obvious, just piece together the brief but delicate sequence, and don't blow the strenuous clip. Latch the "jugs" and then join with Into the Black, which should be a breeze after you've pulled those moves! Just don't forget to bring some gear!

The quiet, shaded corner of the wall. From here, the rock is engulfed by the hillside and vegetation, and the trail wraps around to the top of the cliff. Routes are shorter, but still of fine quality. All anchors and lead bolts have been replaced. A few new routes have been put up on leftmost margin of this section that aren't in the PRC guidebook.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (1) Left Corner Wall