Start with the lowest left hand sloper on the left and a lower right hand crimp/edge. Stick a foot in the crack, then move up and right using a decent sloper and some edges.

This is listed as a V6 in the guidebook. Most people seem to think that's spot on, but I think it's very soft.

Jack of Spades

Tentacles

Pod Racer

Hormonal Monkey

Royal Flush

Lead Pants

Full House

Sitting Bull

Sleeve Ace

Begin on “royal flush’ deep under in the cave on the horizontal hand crack in the ceiling. Jam out until you hit the 45 degree section and set up for a wide move right to good side pulls. Compress slopers on the left with good edges on the right. Positive crimps lead over the top.

Nice warmup on the Royal Flush cluster.

Layback the short flake to a jug and the strange fin feature above -- but don't pull it off

Start matched in pod above the small boulder and traverse left to follow decent holds up the arete.

V0 variation: start at large jug at arete, head straight up via long move to chunky edge.

[GUIDEBOOK VAR] Originally a one move power test somewhere around V9. This variation uses a low foot smear at the start. Stab from the pinches to the lip, try not to dab, and mantle over.

[HEEL HOOK VAR] Start with a heel hook and two overhanging pinches. Reach to the lip and mantle over. Easier and less contrived, different. Probably a V2 this way.

The obvious and famous roof crack on the namesake boulder.  If your technique is not flawless you will want to tape.  The crux may depend on your hand size but turning the lip is no gimmie.

Sit start with a good sloper left hand and a terrible sloping undercling right hand. Do some fancy footwork, hit the sloping, then finish straight up with another sloper and nice jug. Hardest part is getting off the ground, but once you figure it out, it's easy. Awesome for a 3 move problem.

Not sure why no one has added this yet.  Start sitting in the cave under the RF boulder on a horizontal finger crack slot. Work your way out of the cave and over the lip.  A key right foot and left hand will get you up to the top out.  Very fun!

Start to the left of Royal Flush on low jugs.  Campus or use fancy footwork trending up and right. Pull over the lip to positive, but less juggy holds.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Royal Flush