This is a new, harder and cleaner, version. It offers a solid rock and good climbing, with finicky enough pro on the crux to keep you checking just how crazy you are, before it hands you the perfect pocket to keep you in the game. 

  Pitch 1: (5.7, 170 feet) Step onto the left side of the chimney that splits the wall down the middle. Move left onto an indistinct ledge, then continue slightly leftward toward the left end of a short, horizontal line of small bushes above. Once past the bushes, go right a bit, then up. With the steep part done, you will see a broad head wall interrupted by two apparent gullies. Take whatever route is convenient (we went left a bit and then sharply right) to the the base of the left one. 

  Pitch 2: (5.8, 80 feet) Go up the steep, almost perfectly straight trough above. At the top turn right to find a good belay spot on the easy slab.

Mad Cow

Monkeypox

Cowpox

Monkey Fever

Monkeypox shares first pitch with Cowpox, then follows a crack system to the right, past a ridge line, and continues up a corner toward the top of the right side of Zoonotic. 

  Pitch 1, 5.7, (identical to Pitch 1 of Cowpox). Go up a shallow draw to the right of the chimney splitting Zoonotic. Stop at a large crack about 6 feet past the end of the chimney. 

  Pitch 2, 5.5, go up along the line of small blocks clustered around a crack (see image). Stays below the large block on the ridge line. Belay from a comfortable spot on the ridge. 

  Pitch 3, 5.6, traverse right under the wall using a bridge of boulders (protectable). Go up the nice, clean corner to its end, then continue slightly left over easy terrain to the ridge and along the ridge to the top.

Pitch 1 (80 ft) goes up a shallow suggestion of a trough about 20 feet right of the gully and is visible from the ground. It gives the impression that protection will be sparse, but there is just enough if one takes pretty much every opportunity. A short but decent vertical crack protects the more delicate climbing higher up. The route slowly comes closer to the gully. A short, horizontal crack makes for a good belay with a decent stance in the gully itself or near it. 

  Pitch 2 (110 ft) takes the gully for 30 feet or so. When going forward starts to look less than technical, climb instead up the wall on the left. This step will take you onto an easy but unprotectable slab. Move on it somewhat leftward to a spot where you can mount a ramp leading to the right toward a small head wall. Belay from 10 feet or so below this wall from a good crack. 

  Pitch 3 (60 ft) starts by reaching the head wall but then going to the right along this to the ridge line where the progress upward is over the large steps on the right side of the ledge. Continue to the right over a cactus. Go up the corner and up again on the right onto non-technical ground.

This route takes a full advantage of the right-facing corner in the middle of the right half of the Zoonotic wall. It shares the top half of it with Monkeypox. 

  Pitch 1 (100 ft) goes up a groove on the right side of the wall, switches to a parallel groove just to the left of it, continues up over couple of steep bulges, and ends on a wide ledge just left of the tree. 

  Pitch 2 (100 ft) starts at the left end of the ledge and goes up the prominent right-facing corner. A small alcove above the top of the corner provides shaded belay. 

  Pitch 3 (70 ft) goes right and then up over a slab, the angle of which has moderated by now. Heading directly for the rap station on the large, live tree is probably best. Protection is in pockets opening along the seems. 

  Pitches 2 and 3 can probably be combined, but we have climbed this route in the summer for its shade, which would have to be sacrificed. There would also probably be some rope drag from the change in direction.

A broad, mostly north facing wall on the right side of Citadel Canyon, just above Shortline.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Zoonotic