Everybody wants that classic runnout chickenhead pitch. Now you can get it roadside at the price of one of your nine lives. Start on a left hand crimp and right hang undercling side pull, using sidepulls and slopey crimps move up to a jug at the lip. Without letting out a spastic dooky, move up and left following the scales, using slopers at the lip, moving up into better and better holds. There's no colder wind than the one that blows Down a lonesome railroad line

Heartworn Highways

The Iron Curtain

Enter the Dragoon

Short Arms and Deep Pockets

The Shower Curtain

More technical than rocket surgery, and more tense than a fart in an elevator; this climb has the sustain turned to 11, with all the skin shredding crimps you can muster in 20ft of climbing.Stand on the pedestal and begin on sharp jugs and a positive crimp. Move up right into side pulls and more right, into high country, finding your way through a cryptic high crux at the base of the flake. Lunge to a microjug just before the lip and topout onto a monster chickenhead.Get a terrible neck cramp sussing out the beta for full value.

Start on the Crimps on the low side of the arete and traverse right on crimps and slopers untill you get to a good spot to topper.

Crimpy line with a hard first move on the right side of the cave. Start matched on a wide crimp at head height. Make a big difficult first move and traverse right to top out.

Great, tensiony moves lead into the very fun ending to The Iron Curtain. The only real issue with this climb is the rock quality at the bottom, but it has great moves.

Dark Corridor off the trail to the rockfellows

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 36th Chamber of Shaolin