Sometimes the choss cleansing does not go as planned, and the projectiles may go astray. Thankfully no first ascensionists were harmed in this endeavor. That being said, Josh has sick moves when a piece of granite is ricocheting towards his dome.

This new line combines 4.5 pitches of good climbing between

Meltdown

and

Perpetual Doubt

. Currently it finishes at the end of pitch 3 on

Meltdown

. If you bring some gear and a 70m rope, you should finish on the last two pitches of

Meltdown

.

P1 - 5.11a. Start on brown hangers just right of

Perpetual Doubt

. This short pitch is my least favorite of the route. Balance up into a circular pod, and then pull a bouldery crux move to a grassy ledge, 40 feet.

P2 - 5.10-. The climbing improves as you step up left past a bush, and then slab your way back right above your belayer. Continue right to a broken, right-facing corner that climbs quite well. Finish by angling up and left to another grassy ledge with a horn and small roof above, 50 feet.

P3 - 5.10. It is getting better as you step up right to latch onto a flake, and make your past a bolt to an obvious horn. Use a long runner to sling this horn as a piece of pro. Above you is about 40 feet of really fun rails, horns, and flakes with a balancy slab move to the anchor. A word of advice: clip the last bolt, and move down and left to an easy corner that takes you to the anchor, 60 feet.

P3.5 - 5.0. Do an easy leftward traverse with a bolt, then pass the P2 anchor of

Perpetual Doubt

. Keep going a bit further left to yet another grassy ledge to an anchor with one brown hanger and one gray hanger. This is where you want to be, the anchor a bit farther left is for the

Perpetual...

crux pitch, 40 feet.

P4 - 5.11. This is an excellent pitch that takes a line up past an easy corner then up right to a fantastic flake that angles down right to up left. Pull up into a stance, and then tackle the route crux above. After pulling those moves, the angle lessens, and you will see the

Meltdown

anchor that is your goal, 70 feet.

From here, you can continue up two more pitches to top out on

Meltdown

. You need the rack listed on the

Meltdown

page, or rap from here.

From this anchor, it is important to rappel to an anchor 15 feet below the grassy ledge. If not, your single 70m rope will not reach the ground, and you may become a projectile.

Projectile Dysfunction

Temporary Change of Season

Pirate Mode

Trooper Traverse

Meltdown

Matchless

Hemp Seeds Sowed

Mother Lode

Otis

A New Squid In Town

Rad Lad

Brother Toad

The Other Road

Squid Kid

Perpetual Doubt

Don't doubt me, there is some good climbing on this route.

P1: 5.11b. Boulder up to the first bolt, and continue past interesting moves, better than it looks from the ground. A good stance by a bush sets you up for the great finish on small crimps, 70 feet.

P 2: 5.11 b/c. Climb right clip a bolt, then bust left into a steep, slanting, right-facing corner. Pull through roof onto to a beautiful, gently overhanging plaque of stone. Finish pitch with a fun boulder problem to the lip of the wall, 70 feet.

P 2.5. Move belay up and left below pitch 3. Pass a tree and a 2 bolt anchor, then make a short 4th Class move to a upper ledge system. Traverse ledge 30 feet down and left to a 2 bolt anchor below the 3rd pitch.

P 3: 5.12. Climb left off the belay ledge. Encounter a thought provoking slab crux trending left to a left-facing flake system. Pull through a wildly exposed roof, P.D. climbs square on the bolts, making for a fun boulder problem mid-pitch. Bust up and right, climbing amazing varnished jugs on gently overhanging rock, 120 feet.

P 4: 5.11-. Pull moderate boulder problem off belay ledge. It is a good idea to protect the leader with one of the anchor bolts. Follow pro though multiple slab cruxes, spectacular flake system, and a vertical dike. Finish this pitch with the last 2 bolts of "

Meltdown

", 155 feet.

After climbing the 7 bolts to the right of "Momentary Lapse of Reason", jam your way up the splitter (for Monitor) finger crack (2-3 placements) and then step out right for the 3-bolt crux to the anchor. Steep and challenging!

Pitch 1 - Start just left of the

Mother Lode

, either up the chimney or on the prow/arete to the left. Gain the corner above and step out to the right clipping a few bolts up to the 2-bolt chained anchor (5.9).

Pitch 2 - Clip one bolt to gain the hand crack above. Climb through the 2nd pitch of the

Mother Lode

into the clean, finger corner above and continue up the face past 5 bolts to gain the Mother Load belay ledge (5.10c/d).

Pitch 3 - Step up and right and climb the new bolts to the top of the wall (5.10b). FFA on this pitch was Jed Selby-2009

The start of the route is up right from where the trail meets the rock.

P1. Scramble 50 feet up to the bottom of a vegetated gully.  Slog up the gully for 100 feet, then traverse left out of the gully and into an alcove with a fixed belay (5.7).

P2. The crux is pulling through the roof/bulge starting the second pitch (5.8).  Sail up the long ramp ~150 feet (5.6), up to large ledge with a 2 bolt belay.

P3. Start 50 feet, traverse left, and build belay.

P4. Two options for the last pitch: head straight up climbing flakes or trend right into a left-facing corner with wide hands to fist jamming up to another two bolt belay anchor (5.8).  This way is sustained with an overhung feel to it as it leans out left.

Descent: rappel the route with 2 60m ropes in two to three raps, multiple anchor options as there are many rap anchors.

Pitch 1. 10b. Start at the bottom of a stepped R-facing corner.  From bolt 3 to the anchors, the route keeps your attention. Pass a small tree midway, and follow bolts through two overlaps on positive holds. Belay at a sloping ledge at a ring anchor, 13 bolts, 95 feet.

Pitch 2. 11b. Move up and right then fire straight up through 5.10 flakes to a 5.11 slab crux, it's Monitor right. Pass two more bolts to another ring anchor at a good stance, 12 bolts, 85 feet.

Pitch 3. 10+/11-. Start by balancing left of the belay stance to a shallow crack, small cams protect a move left to the first of 8 bolts. Pass a block with an optional knee bar past two more bolts then fire upward then left to a hidden stance in a left facing corner, follow the black hangers. This pitch is about 90 feet long and is a gently rising traverse to the left. Engaging all the way to the anchor. 8 bolts, small cams, 90 feet.

Pitch 4. 10a, Move up about 10 feet off the belay stance, clip a bolt then bring out the cams for the remaining 50 feet. This is a good left leaning corner that takes you to a bolted anchor at a good stance. This stance is below the large orangish finishing corner on Trooper Traverse. 1 bolt, small to med cams, 60 feet.

Pitch 5. 11b, Move up and left in moderate terrain, aiming for a beautiful right facing flake. Climb the flake using medium sized cams, 5.8, for about 12 feet then step right to the first of 9 bolts through a steep headwall. Very fun movement over a bulge leads to easier climbing and an anchor below the summit dome. 9 bolts, cams, 125 feet.

It is possible to rap from the top anchor to the p. 5 belay stance with a 70m rope barely, knot the end of your rope. You can then rap to p.4 anchor, short rap, then two raps on random anchors that get you to the ground. There are anchors all over this section of cliff.

Matchless has consistent, thoughtful face climbing with a significantly harder crux halfway up.

HEMP SEEDS SOWED is the middle pitch(yellow line) of the 3 new routes to the right of

Squid Kid

. Use the same start as

The Other Road

. Climb the first 3 bolts of

The Other Road

and step up right instead of left. Continue past 8 more bolts to the 2-bolt anchor (shared by

The Other Road

and

Brother Toad

). A quality pitch!

Scramble up easy ramps/ledges to cleft marking start of

Trooper Traverse

.  This is the eye-attracting, left-facing dihedral/crack system on the right side of the face.

P1. Face climb straight up with sparse protection (small nuts, Aliens) mixed with 3 bolts. 2nd bolt protects the traversing crux. Finish to ledge from last bolt going either right (harder) or left.  2-bolt belay anchor with chains.

P2. Layback/jam flake to ledge midway with bolt.  Move up into left-angling crack with good jams and cam placements (up to #4 Friend), turn the corner and up to a bolt, then traverse face holds back right and up to a large sloping ledge with 3-bolt belay (~120 feet).

P3. Clip multiple bolts angling left to crux layback/sidepull on small holds well-protected by bolt, then continue up and back right to ledge with tree.

Descent: One-rope rap to 2nd-pitch belay ledge. Two-rope rap to start of route. Scramble to ground.

This pitch lies above

Squid Kid

.  It may be reachable from

Rad Lad

, 11d.  This can be used to make a 2 (11a) or 3 (11c?) pitch short, sport link-up.  The crux lies around the 6th bolt involving sort of a gaston-like thing.  There is another fun move up a bit higher where you have to decide on moving out right or staying on the face ('arder).  It does have a feeling like a bunch of lower-end boulder problems stacked on top of each other.

There is a 2 bolt anchor on the same ledge as the top of the pitch out to the left.

You can rap with 2 60m ropes to the ground.

The Eagles said it best... “Everbody’s talking about the New Squid In Town”....

New Squid climbs the obvious strip of rock just right of

Squid Kid

. It has good rock and fun movement for the entire pitch.

Fun slabbing begins off a grassy ledge and leads to an obvious right to left rising flake, exiting the flake up and right is cruxy. Good cams are available in this section, see the pic for details. After exiting the flake, move right past a small bush and below a whiteish plaque of rock. Climb past 2 bolts on this plaque, pumpy, to a stance. Move right over an arete to finish past 2 additional bolts. You can place a nut prior to moving right over arete if you want.

This has thoughtful, hard sections in a couple of places.  All of the hard parts are thin and balancy.

Climb the 2 bolt start to the right of

The Other Road

and

Hemp Seeds Sowed

. BROTHER TOAD (11 bolts) is the rightmost of the 3 new routes to the right of

Squid Kid

. Pumpy!

The Other Road starts about 20' right of

Squid Kid

and is a 3-pitch classic! All 3 pitches require some gear placements but are mostly bolted...some tricky route finding involved....

P1: 5.10c, 100'. Start where the large tree is closest to the wall, climb the left-facing corner (3"cam placement) to gain the bolts. THE OTHER ROAD is the leftmost of 3 new pitches just right of

Squid Kid

. Step left and up past 4 bolts to 2-3 gear placements (thin), then 5 more bolts to the 2-bolt anchor. To continue the next 2 pitches of THE OTHER ROAD, it's best to step down right and traverse (20') over to the

Trooper Traverse

"alcove" 3-bolt belay.

P2: 5.11a, 110'. Step up right of the "

Trooper Traverse

" to climb gear and bolts up through the dramatic "apex roof" and up past 2 more overhangs to the 2-bolt anchor. The best pitch of the route!! Exciting!

P3: 5.10c, 90'. Step right of the anchor to start. Climb bolts and gear(thin) leftward to the top 2-bolt anchor. The "

Mother Lode

" finishes 20' to the right....

Squid Kid is directly opposite the trail where it meets the rock. There will most likely be someone on it! This is a very popular route, and it's as good as it looks from the ground. Varied climbing past 10 well-positioned bolts gains a ledge with 2 bolts. There is nothing too strenuous, but it is a lot of fun. You will need 2 ropes to get down!

Eds. You can identify the route, left of the large trees, with a rightward pointing flake at about 6 bolts up. You can continue with

Otis

5.11a, 9 bolts for 2nd pitch & going left an 11c for a 3rd pitch.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 3. Trailhead Wall