Stem start between the corner and the fragile flake of

Brazier Food

and higher follow the crack to bolted anchors.

Chili Dog

Electric Free Gordon

Pat Adams Dihedral

Toxic Waltz

Double Delight

Tofutti

Brazier Food

Climbs a prominent crack that slants up and right and ends just below the top of the formation.

Leap Year Flake

might be a good route to approach this.

Tricky moves down low along the vague arête and then run it out as the angle kicks back.

This is another neglected classic which is found on the left side of the

Dairy Queen Wall

. Once at the base of the cliff climb the excellent

Leap Year Flake

or

Leap Erickson

as an approach pitch. Once atop these routes you'll be under a large overhang capping a right facing corner which is the route.

The undercling/layback just off the start is the crux, and after the first 30 feet of climbing, you have to go up and around the roof which is easier, but a bit scary. An excellent stopper placement is here. Excellent rock and convenient rap anchor. Toproping is out of the question due to the huge rope drag; someone will have to second the leader to clean the gear. Pulling the rope after the rap is a bit tricky, pull to the far left.

To the right of

Pat Adams Dihedral

is this steep arete. Five bolts lead up the arete. This climb is MUCH more difficult than currently rated, in part because I broke a crimp while trying it in January of '06. At the current time, the crux is probably a V7 boulder problem followed by a difficult perch move on a large horn and more thin face climbing. The climbing is very good and the position is spectacular.

This is a fun medium grade (5.8) route if you want to get to the top of DQ wall after ticking off Leap Year Flake.  The route was a bit chossy relative to other climbs at J-Tree.

Delicately climb a very thin flake off the ledge to reach a decent crack about halfway up just right of

Double Delight

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Upper Left Side