Layback up the next crack to the right of

SM

for over 100' to an anchor with fixed gear.  Rap or head on up and intersect with

Sugar Magnolia

.

Wench's Dihedral

Evening Light

Carpe Diem

Central Chimney Direct

Sugar Magnolia

Frog Leg

Sugar Magnolia is the crack system to the right of

Central Chimney

. It can be seen from the dirt road as you approach the dome. The start is a nice hand crack that eventually leads into a chimney.

Pitch 1: (5.9+) Begin to the right of Central Chimney where two cracks form an upside down 'v'. The left crack is a 5.10ish variation and the right crack is the direct start(5.9). Jam this nice hand crack until it goes into a chimney. Follow the chimney as far as you can and belay from any one of the chockstones. I do not recommend using one of these rotten chockstones for an achor. However, I did not have anything bigger than a #4 Camalot, so I did indeed belay from a chockstone(the choice is yours). Look for a slung chockstone with webbing at the end of pitch one.

Pitch 2: (5.9) From pitch one, squeeze through the chimney using either VERY large pro, or as I did, used nothing until the end of the chimney where I placed a fist sized camalot( be careful here). Climb the crack at the end of the chimney. Follow the crack until it ends at a 5.7 slab. Climb the 5.7 slab to a big ledge and let your 'chimney wounds' heal.

Pitch 3: (5.5) From the big ledge, climb the 5.5 offwidth to the top of the rock and enjoy the panoramic views of the South Platte Area.

This route starts up

Carpe Diem

but branches right along a crack aiming for a slab above. The second, 9+ pitch heads up the slab past a few bolts to an old 2-bolt anchor.

This is one slaberiffic route. The business on this outting consists of a blank face with  old bolts for pro. As Jim Donini might say, it's steep but at least there are  no holds. Start with an easy crack system left of the Central Chimney  on Humphrey's South face.

Pitch 1: Climb broken crack system up and left to a ledge,  5.7, 100 feet.

Pitch 2: Slabadaba up the face past five bolts to a small  overlap, belay above, 5.10c, 110 feet. This pitch gets an "S" rating due to old bolts, it's harder than it looks.

Pitch 3: Follow easy crack up to a large ledge and belay.  5.6, 55'.

Descent: Walk off to the climber's left.

This route sucks, don't do it. The Chimney is extremely obvious when you reach the base of the Dome. It starts with a small bulge/overhang and continues up the widening off-width to chimney for about 230 ft. to a large ledge.  There is a large bird's nest in the crack which is difficult not to disturb as you thrutch by, pro is tricky unless you  have Big Bros and the grade seems a sandbag for all except  the off-width master. I didn't enjoy this route at all and only add it here so that others may be able to avoid suffering as I did.  When I did this route we ended up having to do some rather sketchy simul-climbing, it is difficult to arrange a belay in the Chimney and it doesn't let up for over 200 feet, I think I got in two pieces of gear and slung a chockstone.  Climb Sugar Magnolia.

Follow a set of cracks uphill from

Wench's

, first going right, then back left.  Ultimately aim for the top of

Sugar Magnolia

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Humphrey's Dome