Oddball low angle vantage mixed climb that is harder than it looks. Stems and face holds (crux) up to a roof with anchor chains above. Supposedly a popular route back in the day.

Professor Pogue's Prolapse

Professor Pogue's Precarious Pinnacle

Ten Minutes of Warmth

Another Notch in My Lipstick Case

Chapstick

Preying Mantle

Out For Kicks

Three Guys and Heather

Flesh and Wildlife

guidebook: "Climb hand crack in a rich facing corner moving left onto a ledge.  Next follow a thin crack past a bulge.  After the bulge, crack widens and eases as your ascend."

A VERY fun beginner trad route.  I found the beginning better if done as a set of stemming moves.  And then moving into the crack.

There is a little bit of loose rock on the route so use caution.

This is a pretty good climb, stiff for the grade. The harder part is the lower seam of a crack.

If you are not well versed in thin cracks, you may want to TR this, pretty pumpy placing gear near crux start.

left most route on the wall. some loose rock. protects well with mostly finger sized pieces.

This route follows the obvious set of 10 or 11 closely spaced and right-leaning bolts in the center of the tilted pillars. Most of the challenging climbing comes in the first half and consists of cryptic mantles and wide stances. You can either start from the ground near the trail or from the top of the short broken pillars at the start of the route.

This is a variation start to Ten minutes of warmth. Three bolts lead to a small ledge that then leads into a 15ft hand crack that ends below a roof. Cut left at the roof into the wide crack finish on ten minutes of warmth. End at anchors for ten minutes of warmth.

Maybe with a cleaning this might be a descent route, until then do yourself a favor and avoid this adventure. I pulled toaster size blocks off and held them so as not to flatten my belayer. Much scree came down on the upper half. So I guess I am adding this in case you were thinking of trying it. The lower half has some cool wild climbing, but the upper part is choss.

Jam or lieback a 15' perfect thin hands left facing corner crack to the top of a semi-detached column. Do a fun move to step right and gain another 15' splitter thin hands crack to the top.

Not amazing nor difficult, but a fun respite from facehold-heavy trad climbs at the this wall.. the pro is bomber!

Final 15' of low 4th class to the chains is littered with loose choss, just like Chapstick- be careful!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (b) Tilted Pillars