Really great slab climbing on bullet-proof, black rock. Trust your feet and grippy gecko fingers. The arete climbing gets a bit airy as gravity grabs onto your buttress. Crux at the finishing moves.

Abba Zabba Arete

Chalk-A-Lot

Double Bubble

Brainfart

No Sleeve's Attached

migraine

Totally Flaked

ice cream headache

Starts with big holds everywhere and goes to a left hand crack that requires you to bump up until your feet are high enough to allow you to toss to a sick pocket right smack dab in the middle of no feet country. Sink a two finger pocket and work those feet up to nice holds on sick overhung territory. From there you get a plethora of small (but positive) crimps, gastones, sidepulls and whatever else you can get your hands on in order to get past the next crux to the next sick rest.  

  Ends with you incredibly pumped and wondering what to do with an arete that dominates the landscape to the anchors. Good sicky, sticky fun! Definately not a one move wonderbread kind of climb. This thing will take you out if you don't figure out how to fight the barn door at the end and keep yourself from getting carried away by wild horses.

Starts on huge holds which soon morph into the smallest, most redonkulous crimps and forearm burning bits of misery. Sick ending!

A somewhat pain-in-the-buttress beginning leads to a maliciously overhung middle that slabs out and gets the heart pumping. Keep your hands on the double -and reach up high- to keep from bursting your bubble. A nervous ending gives the route a fun crux to contend with before clipping the anchors.

Good holds the whole way, a good warmup on the softer side of 10a.

stem the crack/dihedral and don't get a headache at the tricky top section.

Climb a detached pillar to get to a layback crack. This used to be rated 5.9 but has since been extended. The old 5.9 anchors do not exist anymore!

 This route started out as a 5.9 layback crack climb when it was originally bolted. Later, it did get extended and became a 5.10+ climb around 2010. About a year later the developer decided to chop the extension and installed new stainless steel anchors at the position of the original anchors. Most locals agree that the climb is 5.9, but some folks think a 5.10- might be a more accurate grade.

The furthest most left wall of the Mohican, just passed Purgatory.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Head Shop Wall