Thriller moves out of the cave on progressively steepening rock. A hard starting sequence deposits the climber below the first roof system where a high clip protects moving past the overlap. The target here is a large scary looking tooth looming 15 feet above. Despite my best efforts with a crowbar I was unable to even budge the tooth, so while it looks ominous it doesn't seem to be going anywhere. Mark and I have both climbed through using it, and it has been very solid. Move left after the tooth to gain a large plate and a thrilling series of moves that takes the climber to a small stance below the final overlap. The crack above is protected by a few camming units, and while this section is pretty easy in itself, it comes well after the pump factor has taken hold! Two more bolts protect the final section below the anchors. Thriller offers little rest once stepping off the ledge until one is jamed into the crack above. Good one-hand-at-a-time shake-outs can be had in several places, but these don't produce a lot of recovery.

Rock quality on Thriller is overall very good, although one passes a small band of softer stone at a ledge just below the first overlap. The moves on Thriller just get better and better right up to the crack which seems a little more routine but still fun.

Thriller

Stone Warrior

Tap Line

Mammary Lane

Tap Line provides access to the drainage above The Lair, The Wild Lands. The climb itself is unremarkable, but two bolts were added above the climbing that allow you to approach the crags above, and, more importantly, to descend safely back to the rap station. Tap Line can also serve as a warm-up for the routes in the cave that are substantially more difficult.

Stone Warrior begins in a very tight and left leaning dihedral. An unusual series of moves gains a short clean block that is capped by a broad ledge. A low clip off the ledge allows the rope to be pinned out of the way in launching into the steep crux plate. The plate itself is solid at 5.12b and involves an intricate series of crimps and high steps. This is followed by a good rest and more moderate but pumpy and somewhat tricky climbing to the anchor. Overall SW is an interesting and quite good route. The rock quality is very good throughout and the climbing strenuous and varied. The ledge at 40 feet knocks a star off the rating.

The primary consideration with SW is the unavoidable reach problem coming off the ledge. A person much under 5'10" may have serious reach problems. At just under 5'8" I could only touch key holds that launch the series of crux crimps. Mark and I have tried some variations that attempt to avoid the reach problem, but these are significantly more difficult. We have discussed placing a block (rock or wood) on the ledge to at least get the shorter climber to the holds initiating the crux, similar to the start of T2 in Eldo that for years has begun off a stack of blocks.

High Kudos to Mark for running the red point after mis-sequencing the crux. Perhaps this route should be called piano fingers for all the fiddling needed to get back in sequcence and never let go!!

Left hand variation to

Tap Line

. Shares its anchor with

TL

. Another way to get to the awesome crag beyond.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Lair