The Full Nelson can be achieved by climbing the Half Nelson from the heinous sit start.  Right hand on a thin crimp and left hand on a low pinch.  Unlock the burly pull from the deck and move into the rest of The Nelson.

Full Nelson

Black Sails

Hornigold's Hand Job

Crackin' Jenny's Teacup

Half Nelson

When approaching the boulder, this is the first problem in sight.  The Half Nelson starts when you pull onto Nelson's Arete from a standing start and negotiate the thin crimps and delicate feet to pull the sloping top out.

Using a thin left side pull and a wide right flake, compress and pull onto the face.  Feet on the good left low ledge.  Bump the crimps and finess the feet to pull up and left into a good pinch.  Blind holds on the left side of the arete give way to easier moves as you finish at the top of Nelson's arete.May be a sit start variation to bump the grade a bit.

Walking to the right of the boulder locate the solid but very detached flake.  Hands start on the flake and feet to the downhill side facilitate the pull into an undercling and a full pad rail.  Find the feet and pull to the top.

Huge ledge under the right arete gives a good foot stance.  Problem was originally climbed using the right hand arete, and a sharp side crimp as a left.  Bump to the sloping but good higher left hand position and either throw for the top or negotiate the variable intermediate holds.  Advancing the feet once the lip is gained provides a safe and savory mantle for the finish.  Variety of holds allows for fun dynamic moves or static sequencing.  Fun practice it all problem.

Boulder sits just over a tenth of a mile from a large pullout on HWY 140 just west of the Spence Mountain TH.  Estimated approach time is 5-10 mins.Boulder sits under some nice tree coverage at the base of a large lava flow.  Problems range from V1-V5 and lead from a few short moves off the ground to several.  Most of the problems are on the ends of the boulder with a tough arete problem and some thin face moves, as well as an easy backside walk off.  Some climbs are still under development.  Please leave brushes, tools, and trail flagging in place, and pack out what you pack in.  

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Routes in Spence Mountain Bouldering