Start up the corner that is the start of the second pitch of

The War on Peace

, start up the wide crack option, and step right to a thin flake. Reach from that flake to a flake/crack feature that climbs steeply up and left. Climb the upper flake/crack feature to the large ledge.

Bravery

Jazz in the Park

Courage

The War on Peace

This climb take a little bushwhacking to get to but offers decent climbing on good rock. It is listed in the Rifle Mountain Park book as on of the obscurities on the Jumbled Buttress. It is listed at 5.10, but that might be a bit soft. When climbed in Fall 2010, the upper hand crack that isn't shown in the picture was really sandy.

Start left of the water tunnel on a slab. Stay left on the slab, and go around an arete to find a blocky chimney crack. Chimney or climb finger cracks to a hand/finger crack system up higher. Right over the ledge is a two bolt anchor. To climb the second pitch, go up and left on a slab (5.7/5.6 for 25 feet) and build an anchor.

Pitch 1

(5.7). Climb the flake feature underneath the aqueduct, go underneath the aqueduct, and move slightly left to gain the next flake feature. Top out on a ledge with a pine tree and a 2 bolt anchor on the reddish wall.

Pitch 2

(5.6). Move belay up and to the right, at the base of a corner that turns slabby. Climb up the corner, step left, and belay at a good ledge with a bunch of scrub oak, or you can continue up the corner via a wide crack, combining pitch 2 with pitch 3.

Pitch 3

(5.5). Climb up the crack on the face and onto a good ledge with a bunch of big blocks and some pine trees. It’s best to establish a belay at the top of this large ledge.

Pitch 4

(5.6). Climb up and right, looking for a blue stopper hammered into a slot. Climb up slabs, with a bolt in the middle, aiming for the topmost slab that angles up and left with a steep wall above. Move up and left on this slab until you can top out the granite with a bolt protecting the final move. Belay on a big ledge with scrub oak and a two bolt anchor.

Descent:

Rappel route with 70 meter rope. Rappel from top two pitches and then use the rappel anchor for The Journey. First, make a 35 meter rappel from top pitch to the blocky ledge. Scramble down to the two bolt anchor at the top of pitch 3. Rappel 30 meters to base of pitch 2. Rappel 35 meters from top of The Journey. Or, scramble up and left and to gain the large grassy terrace and then go north to the large pine tree, where a bolted rappel route is found below the tree. Alternatively, you can also scramble south via scree back to the base (not recommended).

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Jumbled Buttress