WALK ON THE WILD SIDE(5.7)-Large right diagonaling crack. Follow the crack to the left side of the overhang, You can head up on some unusual horizontals that take cams.

Walk on the Wild Side

I'll Tell You What You Missed

Goofer's Roof Right

Dihedral

Broken Toe (Walk On The Wildside Variation)

Georgiana

Hungarys Burnt (a.k.a. the Dogs Face Crack)

That is That

Hooterville (most obvious version)

Cross The Reaper

You Tell Me What You Saw

Unknown

This Is This

ANDY'S ROUTE

Georges Route

This is the face climbing variation to "Walk On The Wildside".   Start at the same unmistakable right trending crack.  The crack jams real well and feels easy 5.7.  A few feet before the arete there will be slanted horizontals above you at which point you'll start going straight up.  Have faith climbing the face as unique for New England "eyebrow" cracks appear exactly where you need them.   Place pro carefully about 1/2 way up the face as the eyebrow cracks are just flared enough to make placement tricky.   Good pro can be had 4 feet above the tricky placement.  I cleaned the exit crack pretty well so it is a straight 5.6 move and not a manky, dirty, scary mantle move on rock with lichen.  To make it even more mellow, you can place pro to protect the top out.

On the Lower Right Side of Andy's Wall start on the diagonal rail on the right of the water streak, climb up edges and pockets right then left with some big reaches to a good hand jam in a horizontal.  Do some cool moves and make it to the ledge.  Celebrate your victory with a big fist pump in the air and exclaim "Yeah!"  This route crosses the big water streak so may not be good in wet times.

See beta picture. Start on the left crack and climb it as it goes right. Powerful movement will get you off the ground, small gear protects till it tapers off, then it's a committing move straight up to the roof crack and continue up the roof crack right with little feet and a committing mantle to top out. The old guidebook says use the tree for anchor but you can set up a very good anchor at the lunch ledge.

 So ALL the cracks flares in one way or another, so please be a solid trad leader for this one.  

DIHEDRAL( 5.5+ )-Follow the lower cracks of Georges route to their end then go up past a birch tree to bulge then over.(F.A. A.Kling summer '79)   (Variation on DIHEDRAL)(5.8-)-Face directly around corner of bulge.

A nice alternate to George's. Climb the right facing flake to a shelf. Traverse right to a small broken face within the gully, then climb the broken face to a stance just below a small open book (this is the George's finish). Traverse right along a face on a narrow shelf (currently occupied by a tiny but inconvenient black birch) with good holds for about 10 feet, then up a vertical crack (crux) to a rounded but easy topout with decent hands and feet (though it is not a jughaul). Careful rope management is needed to minimize rope drag.

  HUNGRY'S BURNT(5.8+)Good free climb. Starts on the right crack, few tough moves off ground to a balance move on face, gain roof and follow it to right end of roof and finish out end.

Down and right from "This is This" on Andy's Wall, this route starts on the bulge on nice diagonal edges and a horizontal full of quartz and climbs straight up to a small ledge and on up through some cracks to diagonal cracks to finish on a ledge.  Top Rope from the large pine tree.  Good pro but you may need to hunt for some of it.  *I did some major cleaning on this route.  It will continue to improve with traffic.  Climb it!  

This is my version of the route as there are many variations you can take on the face.   It has a nice juggy dead vertical section-not bad for a 5.5 in New England!   Too bad it only lasts about 5 feet!  We started on the right-trending crack on the left of the small alcove that is the start of the "Standard Route" (which goes right from the alcove).  Follow the crack up to the ramp, then go right from the ramp to the small tree/bush and then go straight up (low angle 5th class)  to the top of the cliff.   See pics.

Probably the best route on the Main Wall.   Start basically right below the pine tree at a right facing crack with a few blueberry bushes growing out of it.   Climb straight up to the two  big diagonal cracks that slants up right. Zig (go left)  just a little bit to go above the diagonals and zag (trend right) back more or less going towards and mantle exit right under the pine tree at top.  Mantle up and walk to the tree to finish the route.  Plenty of good pro is to be had on the route if you look carefully.  

 I'm not sure if it's a 1st ascent, but I'm pretty sure the pine tree probably was much smaller 38 or so years ago.   It is not documented in the old guidebook and crosses "The Reaper", "Whip It" and "George's Route", hence I am calling it "Cross the Reaper".   If there is some info on the 1st ascent let me know and I'll correct it.  

Climb the face between the two brown water streaks on diagonal sloping cracks to a horizontal finger crack midway up the wall, continue up through face holds and thin cracks to a ledge at the top and a pile of possibly disconnected rocks.  Top Rope from the large pine with a directional on the oak (or was it a maple?) tree on the right of the ledge.  Will accept some good gear but the bottom half will be tricky.  

 *I named this route but correct me if I'm wrong

This route is on what is known as Porcupine cliff as there has been a Porcupine occupying the cave for as long as I can remember. Approach the roof as seems fit. Make tricky moves up the finger crack gaining the nose. Pull up and over.

The first moves are between a right-tending crack (to the left) and a lower, left-facing flake (to the right).  Work you way up to a pocket alcove, then tiptoe left to the left-facing flake.  Work your way straight up to a reachy, small jug/ledge (crux); this gets you to the arete. Follow the arete and exit early, or you can continue left to the bolted anchor for the 5.11a sport route.

The most obviously line a little bit right of middle of Andy's Cliff.  It is a break in the wall that goes all the way up to a pine tree at the top that zig-zags a little and set back from the left face.

 Climb the face or walk up the ramp to the block.   Lay back on the block to get up on it.   Go up and right with the crux coming at the end of the right traverse.   Cut back left and finish at the pine tree.  Good pro all the way makes for a fun first lead.

This balancy route holds your attention as you follow 2 bolts on the right side of Andy's cliff. To make it safe you should carry a mid size cam to place in a seam before the 2 bolt anchor.

GEORGE'S R0UTE(5.6+)-Traverse the two large cracks until you come to a small crack system. Follow this to the top finishing in the wedge at the top ten feet to the left of the cave. The main Cliff hosts many bee's nests in the summer months..So keep an eye out.

The history of climbing at Deers' Leap, Windham NH.   Deers* leap is an old cliff of very old and weathered granite, many of its cracks are well rounded and in some spots the rock is loose, so be careful. There are several seperate ledges that are all part of the same line of rock that forms the ridge that is the leap. Any original climbing done at the leap was done on the main face by the pond. Over the years these ledges have received many visitors but most of these were picnicers or beer drinkers. Not much climbing development went on here for many years untill recently(since 1977). 

  A guide to Deers Leap. Andy Kling 1984 

  Unfotunately the climbs here have degraded over the past years due to little traffic. Many of the routes have been re-claimed by lichen. Some or most of the boulder problems will need some cleanup. But if you can see past the lichen and have motivation to do some easy scrubbing it will be well worth it as all the routes present great positions and climbing on interesting horizontal features. 

  This area is broken up in to 3 of the major walls. The Main Face, Andy's Cliff (Middle Cliff), Porcupine Cliff. 

**CAUTION, THIS AREA IS KNOWN TO HAVE MANY TICKS ALL SEASON (DEER TICKS AS WELL). USE PRECAUTION, BUG SPRAY, LONG PANTS etc.***

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Deers Leap (Windham)