East Face, also called the Direct East Face is the second "normal" route on the pillar. It is longer than the normal West Ridge. But; it has an easier approach and only a little difficult rock on the 1st 90m. The normal descent route will have to be negotiated without preview. Or there is an increasingly, anchored descent route on this side of the Pillar

The 1st pitch, red colored, squeeze chimney, overhang, is an old school, hard-way, to start. 5.8. It used to have a ton of old fixed pitons. Less now.

The start 12 meters right of “Old School” is pretty easy, 5.5 face and recommended.

The “double” or “Yosemite” Crack 5.7 in the description and topo is not long and has face footholds.

After the double crack pitch move left across the face on ledges, with tundra, all the way to the left edge and more easily climb to the top. 5.5

Descend the west face on average strenght tat in 4 - 31m raps, then carefully descend the Tepee Glacier or more easily the black dike, west, to the Lower saddle. Or as mentioned above, continue to equip the ascent route for descent.

The clean dark gray streaks on the overhanging SSW Face is the:

Opp-Hennessey, III 5.12-**** one of the top hard alpine rock routes in the Tetons.

Left of the Opp-Hennessy is the vertical crack with a A shaped Red colored chimney of the:

Howe-Keith III 5.11**

East Face (Direct East Face) Opp-Hennessy Howe-Keith

West Face

D is for Dizzle

Solid Teton climbing up 3-4 pitches depending on how you break it up.

This route is also the exit route with 3-4 rap stations comprised of massive clumps of webbing, easily identifiable.

"D is for Dizzle" is located on the steep southwest face of the Teepe pillar. It is accessed via the Glenco-Teepe chute, lookers left of the Teepe structure as viewed from the Garnet Canyon morain camps. The route/variation ascends 3 pitches of new terrain before joining the South Ridge to the summit. The route follows good cracks, uncharacteristically splitter for the Tetons, through light colored granite. It is located on the left side of a prominent light colored pillar immediately to the right of a black and white striped headwall. The pillar is home to several fine looking crack systems and many large flakes. Potential for at least two other new routes exists on this pillar. Pitch one is more of an access pitch, Right then Left to a large stance below the pitch 2 dihedral (5.7 20m). Pitch 2 follows a dihedral broken by ledges, with a crux bulge (5.9 30m) to access the base of the crux pitch. Pitch 3 gains parallel hand cracks by climbing the left of two cracks through a roof, hands to fists (5.11 40m) (right roof crack looks like .12+ fingers) above the roof parallel cracks lead to a 5" left leaning, slightly beyond vertical crack with a chockstone midway. (#5 cam could ease the mind a bit here) follow vertical cracks and blocks to a large ledge. Take the South ridge to the summit, descend as for other routes on the Teepe.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Teepe Pillar