The Siren is an exceptional face route on the downhill side of Lower Phantom Spire. It follows a line of 10 bolts to the top.  It is noted by an obvious roof about two thirds up the spire. Surmounting the roof is the crux.

There is a bolt belay just before the crux for those wanting to do a 5.11a or do it in two pitches. The rock is perfect and the climbing consistently challenging. The route was established ground up and on sight.

The Siren

K.E. Cracks

Last Lockup

Jack Corner

The Regular Route

Five Tendons

Driving Miss Dahl

From the notch on the NW side, climb a thin short crack (5.9) to a narrow ledge. Traverse right, around the corner to a flake. Continue right to a shallow, flared chimney. Follow this and easier climbing to the top.

Rap off.

Strenuous and technical, but very good climbing.  Climb side-pull flakes and crimps straight up to the first bolt.  Many will want either a secure spot or a stick clip for the first bolt because the landing is on slanting talus with potential to roll and fall another 50-60 feet down a chimney to the base of the south face.  I usually put a single locker on the first bolt because there is solid climbing to the second bolt where a fall to the deck would be close. Continue climbing past more bolts to a two bolt anchor.

This route gets great shade in the afternoon.

Fun mixed bolt and gear route.  Begins with 10-15 feet of easy climbing to a roof and left trending hand to fist crack (5.9).  The jamming is a bit awkward until you get established above the roof, but it protects perfectly with a #3 BD camalot. Rest at a ledge and then fire the right facing lieback up to a roof and then undercling right (crux) to a big knob and a bolt.  Pull onto the slab above and climb past another bolt or two to the two bolt anchor.  You can set a toprope with a 60m rope.

This climb ascends a straight in corner just to the right of The Last Lockup.  Climb some blocky terrain that's steeper than it looks.  Enter the corner proper and climb the corner.  The crux comes about half way up at a bulge.  Climb to the top of the formation and belay at the chains located above The Last Lockup.  The way the corner is formed yields some unusual and sharp jams.

This route is near the center of the North Face.

Shares the first few bolts of KE cracks and then traverses straight right across a small ledge to the corner/arete.  When you reach the corner, head straight up the wide crack on the arete for 10-15 feet and then step back left onto the face and climb a beautiful and technical headwall (crux is a few bolts up the headwall.)  Stellar climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Spire