Proceed up an easy crack to a ledge. Face above may be climbed by any fair means either by climbing the face or the nose ot the left.

Spacy Face

Two Cheeks

La Siesta Tick Attack

Elvis is Everywhere

Chimney Face

Classic Crack

Unnamed Symphony

Too Fat to Fly

Spacey Arete

Pesky Rodent

Too Wet to Plow

Dusty Devil

Can't Dance

Old Bologna

Smoke Stack

Do or Fly

Shit Eye

Fret Arete

Trisha's Delima

Chimney Face Left

Last Hurrah

Sausalito

Wasp Route

Afternoon Delight

Trilobites

Dusty Devil is an excellent example of the deep offwidths cracks at High Valley. It is further complicated by having two slightly overhanging sections. Begin directly up the crack to the first overhang which leads to a small ledge. The second section is similar crack leading to a slight overhang but the walls are smooth.

Approximately 50' to the left of the access gully are two significant rocks buldges with a crack separating them. These are the "cheeks"

Climb the face using the natural pro with the exception of two bolts. The upper face has thin cracks that take gear.

Climb a steep face to the right of "Classic Crack"

The overhanging face to the right Smoke Stack.

The obvious dihedral to the left of Smokestack. The rating is based on staying in the crack and not using "Trisha's Dilema" The crack can be stemmed or lay backed.

Start in "Last Hurrah" and move left into a jam crack. Ascend the jam crack as it goes up under the overhang that is part of "Do or Fly" which then works back right into "Last Hurrah" at the chock stone.

To the left of "Can't Dance" is a 30' finger crack with horizontals ledges

Climb the bolted arete to the right of Spacey Face staying on the left side of the arete. 

  The name and the grade is simply a description as I am unsure if it was ever formally named by the FA party. I have also not climbed it so I am unsure of the exact grade - thus the old 5.9+ grade is used.

Pesky Rodent has two starts one beginning just to the left of "Dusty Devil' or directly beneath the main crack. The first start involves going up a thin crack that traverse left into the main crack. The second start goes directly up to the main crack. Both end on a small ledge. Proceed up the off-width crack.

To the left of "Too Fat to Fly"  is a finger crack.  Climb the crack to the top.

The  farthest climb to the right begins below a roof and goes up a wide chimney to the roof. Traverse right onto the face and move up to the top of the roof.

The final climb in this group. And easy scramble up to a wide chimney.  

  NOTE: Good views of "Do or Fly" and "Last Hurrah" is possible from half way up.

Approximate 10' left of "Two Cheeks" is a wide chimney. Climb directly up this non-exposed route.

This is the classic High Valley route. Ascend up a beautiful fist jam crack. The crux is at the top where it overhangs.

Just left of the "Smoke Stack" on the rock nose is 50' left leaning crack. Face climb the bottom and jam the top which becomes an offwidth.

Arete to the right of Shit Eye. Start on Shit Eye and move right.

Follow the obvious crack and ledge system to the left of "Classic Crack" Mid way there is a semi detached flake where one stems to the right flake.

Overhanging face to the left of Smoke Stack

To the left of "Afternoon Delight" is a very deep crack that is slightly over hanging from top to bottom. Ascend the crack.  

  NOTE: a large chock stone is found at the top that is holding back several other large blocks.

To the left of "Trisha'a Delima" is a broke ledge and crack system that leads to a ledge 1/2 up. Above the ledge is an overhanging face. Move left of the ledge utilizing an undercling. Finish out the climb via and airy nubbins and solution pockets.

Climb the face and arete which is slightly overhanging and has some long reaches on it.

Ascend a beautiful sicle crack up a small face. Follow the crack completely to the left or directly up the face as the crack thins. Either ends on a large ledge, proceed up another off-width crackto the top.

Three short climbs (25') that are within 10' of each other and just to the right of the access trail. The left crack is 5.8+ finger crack, the middle is 5.6 off width open book, and right a 5.4 squeeze chimney.

The upper wall that is about 300 feet above the road. Sunny in the mornings and shady in the afternoons. Routes are listed by features from right to left. 

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper or Main Wall