With the possible exception of the SE Spur this is the best climb on Mt Washington. For the High Cascades in Oregon this route has excellent rock - maybe the best on any mountain in Oregon - but it is still poor compared to the Sierras or North Cascades. I have climbed this route at least four times. The last time I climbed it, my climbing partner, Paige, and I had a very fun and rewarding climb.Route: With the exceptions of the starting dihedral and a V-chimney on the summit massif there are multiple variations to each pitch. The climb can be divided into three distinct parts:Part 1: Two or three pitches of reasonable climbing up to 5.8 to get to the notch and then up a gully.First, a short pitch to get to the notch. There are three ways of doing this (two from the north side and one on the south side):1. North side rope drag 5.4: From the alcove climb easy rock to the right and circle around to the notch.2. North side direct 5.7/8: From the alcove climb short vertical cracks leading slightly right of the notch.3. From the south side 4th class slabs lead to the notch.Once at the notch traverse on the south side for about 10-15 feet to a dihedral. At 5.8 the dihedral may be the crux of the climb. After the dihedral, easy climbing leads up to the crest of the ridge. Near the top enter a low angle shallow gully. Climb the simple low angle gully to its top. The gully is the steepest section of the loose Cascade Dinner Plates. With careful scrambling the dinner plates are not bad.Part 2: The next 250 feet or so is easy climbing on the low angle ridge crest. This section contains more loose dinner plates, but again not dangerously so. This section ends at the base of the summit massif.Part 3: The final section is four or so pitches. For the most part, the rock of this section is solid and it is not until the final ridge walk that you encounter much loose rock.About 80 feet up from the base of the summit massif is a short, 20' V-chimney. Climb the chimney. Above the chimney move left and continue up to a comfortable belay stance. From here there are many options for each pitch. None should be more than 5.7/8. About 250 feet from the summit, the route becomes easy 3rd class scramble.

West Ridge

North Ridge

Southeast Spur

The Crux of this route is definitely the approach, although it is a fairly easy one. Once leaving the PCT on the climbers trail (see main page for approach). Follow this trail and/or snow fields, depending on the time of year, east and slightly north till you top timberline on the north-ridge proper, then follow the obvious climbers trail along the ridge top scrambling though scree and some loose boulder fields till you reach the notch between a small false summit/spur and the real summit plug. Then pick your way up very loose and crumbly rock pseudo chimney and set you first belay wherever convenient/rope-drag becomes to much, you should be able to see the first and second rap stations at this point. Continue on up through easy climbing and scrambling till somewhere just past the second rap station and set your second belay. The third and final pitch head up the most verticle section of rock to the right and once the terrain eases set you final belay. You'll see the highest rap station above you and to climber's right, at this point it is a short scramble to the summit. Descend the route via three raps back to hiking ground, watch out for rock fall when pulling the rope and throughout the climb, helmets are necessary. And as with any chossy alpine routes remember the mantra of the leader must not fall, and be comfortable with the grade and exposure because much of the protection can be runout/suspect, although good belay stations were easy to find.

Maybe the best climb on Mt Washington. For the High Cascade in Oregon this route has excellent rock, which is poor by the Sierras and North Cascade standards. 

  The climb can be divided into four distant parts.   Part 1: About 70m of fun, clean slab with many cracks for protection. The slabs begin on the south side of the ridge about 50 feet from the foot of the ridge. The slabs end on top of the ridge at two dead snags.   Part 2: A fun easy 3rd and easy 5th class walk along a narrow ridge for about three rope lengths. This part of the climb ends on a ledge with a large dead snag on the right side.   Part 3: A short 30m or so pitch up the headwall. The large dead snag makes for a scary 5.5 rock-tree climb of the headwall. However you may find other routes off the ledge. Belay at any convent spot. This pitch is the crux of the climb.   Part 4: Easy climbing for three to four rope lengths leads to the summit. This portion of the climb contains loose rock and is basically scrambling from one broke ledge to another. There are many options and routes, which can be taken. (I have climbed this route at least 6 times and have never done this part of the climb the same twice.) With very careful route finding you can avoid most if not all of the loose rock. BE FOREWARNED: with bad luck and errors in route finding it is quite possible to only experience loose rock.

Mt. Washington is an eroded volcanic plug in the central Oregon Cascades, the main rock types are basalts, including andesite. As with most Oregon cascade mountains the rock quality is generally crumbly and poor, however the quality does improve at the summit's exposed volcanic plug (still not super though). The majority of summits seem to happen from mid-June through September, although year round summit possibilities exist. There are several routes to the summit though the most popular is the North Ridge route. Make sure to sign the summit register!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mt. Washington