It's a long walk and devious approach for a 50' climb, but you can't deny the history.  Ax Nelson and Robin Hansen were members of the team which made the FA of the Lost Arrow Tip in Yosemite in the same year!

To approach, once you reach the base of the rock, follow the obvious weakness up and left to a small pod.  The crux of the approach is climbing up and over this pod.  It's 4th class, but don't fall.  Continue up and left to the sloping area which serves as a base for the Salathe and Wilts routes on the Hand.

After putting on your climbing gear, fourth class up the gully which soon becomes as chimney.  It is still 4th class, but some may choose to be roped for this section.

At the top of the chimney the Regular Route climbs the face to the northeast past some pretty big knobs and two bolts.  Head up and right after surmounting the crux above the 1st bolt.

To descend, it is advised to rappel directly back to the notch. Resist the temptation to continue rappelling down into the chimney as you might have difficulty pulling your rope.

Regular Route

Fifty Meter Must

All of the bolts have been replaced. Climb past the first anchor and belay at the second. No need to sling any knobs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Thumb