Magic Carpet Ride

Seduction and Rejection

Roofs

In and Out

The Abyss

Boy Howdy

Poika

Bushmaster

The Horizontal Tango

the dance

Roofs goes up a broken crack system to an overhang (crux) and left facing corner.  The crack stays wet longer than almost any other route at Blue Mounds.  This route is a testy lead for the grade.

Climb up to a crack in the roof (hands/fists)and work left around the roof.  Continue to the top using the crack and face holds.

Crummy climbing up the dihedral and into the off width above.  It was a long time ago that I did this one so maybe it isn't as bad as I remember it being.

This wide crack is on your right when you enter the cave just north of Z.  It sees little traffic and is usually dirty.  Follow this crack straight up and emerge out of the chimney above.  Practice your stemming by using the opposing wall on your way up.

A short little route that might feel slightly hard for its grade.  Begin climbing the scattered features directly below the corner overhead.  Get your hands in the crack above the roof and transition to a pumpy layback (if that's how you choose to do it) with small slick foot holds.

X is the crack route at the right edge of Chimney Buttress's large roof.  Start up the left side of the crack eventually moving to its right side.  Continue over the small roof (crux) and up on easier terrain.

A face climb going straight up the center of Chimney Buttress's large roof.  Subdue the roof with a tricky sequence, continue up on slightly easier terrain.

Follow the crack straight up the big roof.  There are a lot of jugs throughout this section that make the roof very manageable.  Watch out for cactus at the ledge half way up.  Finish by working right after gaining the big ledge, ending on the face of the giant block at the top.

The Horizontal Tango starts up the dihedral in between Seduction and Rejection and In and Out.  Follow this dihedral up to the roof and continue straight up or stay in the crack that works to the right a bit for a harder version.

A fun although not entirely obvious route.  Locate a small crack in the top of the buttress between X and Z.  Find holds on the face working your way to this crack and the top.

15 routes or so line this large buttress.  The climbing ranges from 5.6 to 5.11.  A number of routes exist behind the buttress as well, but since this is also the approach gully it is probably best to avoid them on busy days.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 9. Chimney Buttress