Nice, mellow, south facing route (gets plenty of sun in winter) to take aspiring leaders or new climbers on. Looking up you'll see two obvious wavy cracks heading up to a roof. If you have more time to kill you can even set up a top rope and choose one of the four variations of the first pitch (crack 1, crack 2, slab only, or left facing dihedral crack.)

 Pitch 1 (5.5)Pick either crack and climb up through the roof and to the bolt anchors.

 Pitch 2 (5.4)Traverse to the right and follow the crack to a two bolt belay.  NOTE: This belay used to consist of an ugly swath of slings stuck tight in a pinched crack. Thankfully, those slings have been replaced by a nice set of bolts.

 Descent: One sixty meter rope is fine for the rappel. Watch the ends when coming down the first pitch, it's close.  See below for some  important clarification.

 If you want to rap all the way to the bolts at the beginning of the described P1, a 60m will NOT make it. But rapping on a 60m rope does get one to terrain that can then be down climbed to the bolts or to the beginning of the walk off from that point.There are two places to end your rappel on a 60m rope.1) A 60m rope will easily reach the low-angle bottom of the primary dihedral of the area. From an easy stance just above some vegetation, pull the rope and scramble off skier's left via some unexposed 3rd or 4th class moves.2) A 60m rope can often barely reach another ~5 meters to a flat spot that is climber's right of the start of the smaller right-facing dihedral one climbs at the start of P1. Rope ends must be even and it is possible some "60m" ropes will not reach this far.

Flake n' Bake

Lena's Cousin

Friction Addition

Dihedral

Slab

Lena's Direct

The crux is roughly the first 30 feet of the route near the water stain.

Just stay in the crack from bottom to top (right to left climbing).  The upper portion is a foot traverse on top of the left facing dihedral.

This is the slab just right of the main line of Flake 'n Bake, as listed in the Loucks' Guide to the Lower Sandias (5.8). It's a great TR if you just lower after leading Flake 'n Bake. It's even more fun if you don't use the huecos and the larger features when you get to the middle of the route.

This route is distinct from Flake 'n Bake, especially given the separate new-ish anchor at the top of pitch 1.  The crux pitch of Dihedral is probably a little easier while protection is not as abundant.P1: Climb the dihedral.  Pass the roof a little on its' left or make harder moves on a direct line. Find a bolted anchor with chains a little up and right. 5.5, 90 ft.P2: Continue up on the same line as P1 for another 5 or 10 feet (i.e., left of the bolted anchor).  Move left to find a very short left-facing dihedral with little to no pro.  Climb up and then follow left edge of block-y / flake-y terrain to a bolted rap anchor.  5.3, 90 ft.The above description of P2 is based on a topo in the old Loucks' guide.  Some parts of this P2 are shared with the P2 description of Flake 'n Bake; many ways are possible. Last, the Loucks' guide also identifies Dihedral as a three pitch climb of which I can't identify the third in the poor electronic copy that I have.

Climb the little face to the right of the left facing dihedral, cross Lena's cousin, go right and up, clip another bolt and continue to the top.

Only one real route on this area, but a nice one for the beginning leader or if you wanna take some newbies out "trad-climbin"! Mellow, low angle route taking you up two pitches on high quality rock. 

  To get there, hike up lower LaCueva canyon, finding Bathtub falls (this is a short fall you will come across about 20 minutes up the canyon).  There are giant boulders all over the area stemming from recent rockfall. From Bathtub falls look north and you will see the low angled flake that is the climb you are looking for. The double crack leading to a small roof is quite obvious.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Flake n' Bake