This is a superb route on high-quality and heavily-featured granite. Pull an airy roof at about 1/3 height, then climb the headwall through a sea of incut holds that thin out at the very end.

Noted as a TR in the Horniak guide, this is now fully-bolted. Although the bolts are a tiny bit spaced below the roof, and you could probably sneak some gear in there if you wanted...

East Buttress Direct

Backstroke

Striking line up the prow that tackles the severe overhang of the buttress. Starts with a lengthy and runout slab section. I felt this warranted at least a PG rating (MP only offers PG13/R/X), as there are just 4 bolts for ~50' of climbing through the slab section, and there are a handful of tricky slab moves above the bolts which would really suck to fall on.

After mastering the slab, fire off through an awesome, quickly steepening overhang. This section is characterized by bouldery movement between a wide variety of holds. The route probably get its name from the moves in this section which frequently involve throwing your arms behind your head to grab the next hold.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. East Buttress