Project. Top rope only right now, traverse over from Sugar Briches anchors. Face climbing on friable rock, careful. Start on the right facing, sloping rail, try to move up through the scarred face into the dihedral above. Open for all to try.

Project

Red, Yellow, Blue

Sugar Briches

Honeyshine

S Church Crack

Trim Your Bush

Poop Deck

Solid hand jams lead to a small roof.  Turn the roof (crux)and climb through loose rock to a spacious ledge.  Belay from this ledge on small gear and a single bolt.

Beyond this ledge, a stick/feather/crap -filled gully leads higher into a large bird nest.  I climbed as far as the nest.  To top-out would require climbing through a massive, loose, and difficult-to-protect roof.

Dihedral crack that starts out as fingers laybacking and widens  to hands and a solid fist jam as you pull over the top.  The top is the crux and is pretty awkward.  Then follow the low angle up a few feet and belay from a bush back from the edge.

Interesting stemming between the two walls, while jamming in the crack on the main buttress. Get creative. Crux comes when it's time to commit to the crack and leave the chimney-ing.

Right-facing dihedral taking #2-3.5 camalots.  Start with wide hands for about 12 ft of easy climbing to a steeper section.  Crack narrows to solid handjams through steepest part to a ledge.  From the ledge work into a tight chimney placing marginal, thin gear to top.  We built a belay using small nuts and cams in the chimney, then squeezed through to the top out.

Edit:  Two glue-in bolt anchors have been added at the top of this route.  There is considerable rope drag when top roping.  I would suggest rappelling off of the climb to limit rope drag.

crux is the bottom part of the thin splitter. after an opening hook move a #7 stopper (bd) gets you established. From there its thin nutting that appears straight forward, however many of them pulled under a light bounce test from the rock blowing out. Head up the crack to a nice left hand jug where the angle decreases, then look right for a sort of S shaped crack to transfer to. During my ascent a 000 bd C3 worked to get into it. however it was so sandy after much skating of the cam it finally stuck by being pretty much umbrella'ed. Then a slightly larger cam (.3 bd) or stopper (thank god!) will get you high enough to plug a #1 or #2 cam into poop deck and hop on over there to finish at poop decks anchors. if it were longer it'd be proper C3, but there's probably 2 stoppers that with screamers would keep you off the ground before you get the .3 C4.

Obvious hand-sized crack with a large bush growing about 10 ft. up.  Passing the bush may have actually been harder than 5.7, but was definitely the crux.  The crack starts out straight in, then turns into a shallow right facing corner.  As you're topping out into the chimney there is loose and rotten rock.  The main crack is bomber, but the outer layers can be a bit sketchy.  Once in the chimney, a few stem moves and you're on the top.

The bush looked like it has been trimmed maybe 15 or more years ago, but I have no information on FA or possible names of the route.

C-5: Reference to a board game?  Fifth listed route on the Central Battleship?  Or remember to bring that clunky #5 Camalot?

Follow the traversing hand crack to a fist, then larger than fists corner.  At its widest, a #5 camalot fits nicely, though expect some fresh guano and loose rock.  Above the offwidth, a finger crack leads to a chossy ledge.  Traverse several feet left on this ledge and finish the climb with the last 15 feet of "Trim Your Bush."

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Central Battleship Formation