Tricky crux and fun movement

Climb up the slab to the first bolt of "Blackberry Apple Crumble". Then go straight up and mantle the lip and climb up the slab. Climb up the face and into the inlet using crimps and a Gaston then stand and reach for the clipping jug. Then using a pinch, and a ledge get a right hand gaston and finish it out on the side pulls and ledges.

*Use alpine draws on the 1st and 3rd bolts

Blinded by the Lichen

Three Bulges Direct

Krusty Krack

Blackberry Apple Crumble

The Buldgening

Bulgier Than You Think

A bouldery but very easy start leads to a bad (tipped out #3) "confidence" placement. Head up the crack system on bomber gear to the anchors. A great lead for the newer tradder. Have fun!

The start is a bit runout so if you are not comfortable placing gear, lower/rappel down and pre-place what you need.

Long slings are very nice to have for the first 2-3 placements. Make sure to bring a long cordelette or 240 cm sling for the anchor.

Distinct and fun climbing. Crux #1 is at the third bolt navigating the rock-over mantle. The real crux comes at the end. Find your way up the slab and don't forget your feet!

Long cordelette or slings for the anchor.

Sustained but easy climbing. Find the plentiful jugs and keep on going. Gather your grit at the last bolt and go for it!

Use double length slings for the 1st, 2nd, and 7th bolts.

Some bolts are located to the right (e.g. the 5th and 7th) because of rock quality.

Long cordelette or 240cm sling recommended for the anchor.

Climb through the dihedral, up the few jugs then climb up the face of the buldge. The Crux is the buldge; after reaching the crack holds on the lower face of the buldge, Reach high to a left hand gaston and out to a crimp side pull on the right. Then reach to a small crimp on the left face and a pinch or mono/pinch on the right then high feet and grab the top out jugs.

The Crux will pump you out if you take too long so fire through it!

*Use an alpine draw on the first bolt*

Sustained 5.9 climbing. The crux comes at the top pulling the roof. Find the good sinker crack jugs and either go left for balanced slab climbing, or right for more jug hauling. Either way, it's the same difficulty.

Long slings or cordelette for the anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Five and Dime