Short and lichen covered slab-route is an alright warm up.

La Pratique

Vivre l"Amour

King of Carrot Flowers

L'Amour des Toits

There is one burly move getting established on the head wall, however the real crux comes from the last bolt to the chains. Left or right both are doable.

Begin by navigating up thru the broken cliff band, chossy and loose. My first solid piece of gear was a silver mastercam/tcu placement that you'll sling long and begin to climb up and left to better rock. Place pro wherever you can find it until you find yourself engaging the crux moves. Here in a downward facing horizontal you'll place the crux pro. I remember using a purple/blue master cam, backed up with a blue tcu.  From here make a strenuous lunge up and left for a flattish hold (letterbox you'll locate from the upper right side of belay terrace) that once you reel in and establish feet, slam in a finger size cam.  The lunge to this flattish hold (crux) is somewhat low percentage and requires an attentive belay. If you fail to stick the move there is a likely chance you'll collide with your belayer and if your gear is not solid, you'll deck.  From here, do a committing move and gain a stance on the flattish hold. Continue up towards the roof/bulge on very cool gritstone, conglomerate rock. Climbing eases and pro is good. Pull the roof on jugs and establish yourself on upper face and navigate yourself up and slightly left staying right of the wide crack placing gear where you can. Good trees at top for lowering off.

This thing is steep! Manage your pump well, or you may find yourself screaming "Putain!" at the top!

It's a good idea to stick clip the second bolt, if possible. The moves and the clip are a little tricky, and a fall wouldn't be fun. Carry long slings to reduce drag. As of 4/13/14, there was a carabiner on the 4th bolt for ease of cleaning.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 07. French Wall