Pitch 1. Begin in the middle of the south face of the tower, climbing up to a hangerless bolt at 20 feet (5.4). From here, wander up and left to a deep slot where you'll (hopefully) find two pins in questionable rock. These pins don't look good, so don't plan on falling on them. From here, traverse back left to the end of the slot, and climb up on huecos (5.6). Depending on exactly how you do this, you may be able to slot a medium cam in the horizontal slot at your feet. Continue climbing up and left until you gain the ridge, then climb straight up the ridge (5.8) to a drilled pin (which actually may be good), conveniently located just after the crux moves. Mantel onto the prominent ledge just below the summit on the west ridge, and sit in the hole to belay.

Pitch 2. Continue east along the ledge until you can climb up through the large notch in the middle of the summit block on the south side (5.5).

Descent: there is a summit anchor, some old pins which were backed up in 1998 with more bad pins. Your best bet is to simul-rappel.

The South Face

Mudolomania

Mudolomania begins in an easy, shallow, right-facing dihedral on the South Face of Monument Tower.  I am not sure, but the first five to ten feet might be shared with the South Face route.  Some easy scrambling leads to progressively harder, loose beaking through a bulge that is up and right from the start.  There is a very large loose flake, so tread lightly.  The rock in general is very loose, and ledge fall potential abounds.  Eventually work up to a ledge where four number one beaks can be used to make a semi-anchor.  From here, traverse right along ledges, passing an old mouse nest that a #3 Camalot can be placed in.  Make unprotected slab moves to another ledge system.  Crawl/walk east along the ledge system until it is possible to make another very committing mantle.  From here, walk along the summit ridge to the final mantel.  The rock is very loose, the gear is poor, and consequences are serious.  This is a fun route but not for the mud/loose rock uninitiated.  There is a four drilled-angle anchor directly above the route which was placed to avoid the death angles that are at the top of the South Face route (also makes it easier to clean the route safely).  One of the angles is pretty beater and could probably be brought down by any future parties.  I didnt see a summit register up top, so that might be a good addition as well.  As far as I know, this was the first ascent up this section of Monument Tower, but if someone has done this before let me know. NO BOLTS/ANGLES were drilled on the F.A. except for the anchor at the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Monument Rock