This is a beautiful line with some of the best rock on the wall. Its also the easiest and "safest" of the runout routes here. Not to take anything away from Blackout but you could consider this line as an "entry-level" introduction to the other four routes Bachar put up 5 years prior. Same start as Cheatstone with the in-situ log "cheat" start (12- traverse or A0 log) and the big black streak to a slight and sloping ledge. The hardest climbing is rather well protected by good bolts with 5.10 R climbing but the 5.10 first half (50 feet) of the route is in the X-zone.

One of the best pitches of its style and difficulty anywhere.

The first half of these two routes is characterized by a committing sequence and keep-it-cool face traverse and knob balancing with your first possible (mental) pro at about 25' (Dyneema-thin sling around med size knob). Once near the sloping ledge, it is possible to place a green Alien size cam in a horizontal and an offset brass above it (but its not hard here). The first bolt is above this point and just below the first of two steep bulges. Both bolts are original 1986 vintage but, and I quote Bachar, are "$8.00 bolts and are totally bomber"...The bolts are eyebolt/wedge style and do appear to be quite bomber. Either I am naive or something else but I trust John.

Awesome knob moves for 12' to the second bulge with the last bolt. Do  more, steeper (and cruxy) knob pulls to cool pockets until its possible to place a yellow Alien size cam near the bottom of a crack that comes down from the top. Staying left of the dirty crack follows excellent, solid grey knobs and eventually the top and a bolted anchor. 35M rap/lower.

Blackout (direct start)

Body Count

Love Sexy

Shadow Warriors

Body and Soul

Countdown

Body and Soul is characterized by an impressive knobby bulge above a smooth brown and white mottled wall. The route is a major achievement for it's era and even today. Done prior to and overshadowed by "Bachar-Yerian" and in the style of the day, B&S is another example of John's physical abilities and mindset.

The route has yet to be led ground up in true onsight style. Steve Schneider, according to John, made the second ascent after taking big falls onto the pro below the crux bulge and lowered off yo-yo style. It is unclear how many ascents should be documented. When attempted even with these tactics, the route is quite formidable and dangerous! It's just one of those climbs you get obsessed about and don't spend too much time messing around on.

I've done other Falkenstein routes that I thought were awesome but this rig is not the case...First of all, you have to climb up a 7 foot hand-placed log (A0) and then pull on the first bolt to stand on the log (A0). From this point its a 10+ move to fun 5.9 and an 11a move over a bulge. From the ledge the climbing is totally contrived...The moves off the ledge use holds on Blackout (a classic run-out pitch on the left) but the bolts on Body Count are far to the right. For pretty much the rest of the way, the moves are awkwardly unaesthetic. The climbing is definitely hard but so off character from anything else here.

Climb a line of bolts up to the obvious parallel black streaks on steep thin edges and small knobs.

Hard moves begin as soon as you clip the first bolt with cool underclings and a cruxy cross-through to a slopey sidepull and then to a bucket flake (hollow) rest. Crank over a bulge on good knobs and continue with bouldery moves on cool irregular shaped nubbins - rest/clip and repeat until the angle eases off before heading to the anchor. A very good and continuous line.

There are two options for a start on this.

One traversing left and up on easier terrain (5.10a) and then straight up to a very high first bolt.

The second coming in from the left and traversing up and right that clocks in at 12a and up to the same high first bolt.

After gaining the ledge system climb up to a second bolt and straight into the crux. A small right facing corner and a roof that it could be possible to get some gear into to make the route a tad safer.

From there it is up to a third bolt and a two bolt anchor.

A top rope can be hung easily from the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in South Whizz Dome