Starts with two bolts of hand jamming and stemming in a textbook dihedral. Two bolts will lead you a large ledge where you can shake, clip the high third bolt, and ponder the arête above. Slap, slope, crimp and hook your way up the arête, finishing just right of The Sampler. 

  Original rated 12b, but downrated after easier beta was discovered by a clever Canadian. So even though the rating is 11b (maybe it will change with more ascents), it may feel much harder unless you find the right beta - read comments below for a little of that beta.  

  With the downrating, I should also add a bolt above the second bolt. I left it a bit runout there, with the original 12b grade in mind. The climbing is quite easy, but there is ground fall potential. If the climb is going to be called 11b, I should add the bolt.

The Thief

Over and Back

The Broken Blade

Central Limit

Corner Exit

Phosphorescent

Chiquito pero Picon

The Sampler

Route 66

Infrared Heart

Battle of the Bulge

A striking overhanging arete that climbs as good as it looks. Most of the climb is pure arete climbing, with hands and feet milking unlikely holds on either side of the feature.  

  I had been eyeballing this line for years from across the canyon. I was finally drawn in, and all control was turned over to  The Sampler.

Located immediately left of corner exit. Start with a tricky sequence through a section of flakes and knobs to a good rest. Climb straight up a section of vertical crystals to another rest below a steeper short head wall. Move up the right hand side of the head wall, then hand traverse back left across the top before pulling over the top to the anchors.

Joe S and K clued me in to this stunning line with the caveat that it may not go at all. Sure enough it was one of the blankest walls I had seen on Lemmon, with many of the holds not apparent even now with chalk on them. However, unlikely holds appeared, sequences emerged, and The Broken Blade was born.  

  The route begins in the middle of the face to the right of Infrared Heart. At the first bolt launch into a progressively difficult boulder problem requiring extreme tension and fingers of rebar. This sequence culminates in difficult moves to and from an absolutely heinous 2 finger crimp that will challenge preconceived notions of the word "hold".  

  A monster deadpoint spits you out onto the best hold in the first 50 ft of the route, a good 3-4 finger mini horn. Launch again into a slightly less difficult boulder problem and execute a technical traverse. Switch gears and keep it together for the final (slightly easier still) boulder problem involving powerful moves on a pinch/undercling and slaps to big, open handed holds. Surf it out through jug city and mantel the ledge to glory.  

  This is a power endurance route. The 50 feet of business is super sustained with nothing to match and only a few places that its even conceivable to chalk or get a quick shake. 

  Very different from anything in its grade range, this route requires some serious savagery and is a Lemmon hard-man classic.

Located between Battle of the Bulge and Phosphorescent. Start up arete/slab to small triangular roof. After clipping bolt just above the roof, make a few moves straight up to ledge stance. From ledge clip bolt, make crux move, then perform a series of technical moves straight up to anchors.

Start laybacking from the bottom of the prominent right-facing corner located near the middle of the wall, just left of Infrared Heart. Avoid the large chockstone wedged inside the back of the crack. We were able to get it to move a little by jumping on one of the corners, but were unable to dislodge it with a crowbar. Follow the corner until a point near the top where one has to step right onto the face. Follow face straight up for a few more bolts to the anchors. Although th route is consistent in difficulty, the last part is the crux

Short but action-packed dihedral on the right end of the wall. Starts off with some easier slab climbing, and slowly gets steeper and steeper until find yourself doing some unexpectedly horizontal and gymnastic moves.

This route can be classified as a high boulder problem. It is a short route, but it is on you all the way till the anchors therefore the name which translate to "Short but Spicy".  

  The first bolt is high but it can be stick clipped or climb too if comfortable in the grade.

This leftmost bolted route. Bouldery start for first ~4 bolts leads to ledge mid-climb. Top is steeper and stays hard to the anchors. Top bolt may be moved to allow clipping from one move lower, but is still safe as is. So go get your kicks.

Climbs the sheer-looking face right of the long crack/corner system. A lot of great climbing, but discontinuous in difficulty. The start is a little contrived, but the climb is worth the effort. 

  Scramble up to the first bolt, clip, then move left to the corner. Climb the corner, while clipping the second and third bolts on the face. Move up and past the third bolt, then move right onto the face using a matchable crimp, and a black foothold. Clip the fourth bolt, then move through the first crux, using some small holds and good technique. Some easier climbing will lead to the second, easier crux. After this you are rewarded with 30 feet of incredibly fun, steep jug hauling. Things get a little tricky again at the anchors, as you navigate through a large quartz band and some hidden incuts.

Located between the Thief and Central Limit. A few tricky moves get one quickly to a jug-rail. From here one can either hand traverse right on jug-rail until under the next bolt and then straight up or proceed up to large flake/corner, then right across the top of the flake/corner towards the next bolt. Both paths then proceed up from that bolt into a shallow right facing corner below a bulge. Clip the bolt on the bulge and pull over onto some tricky face climbing (crux) straight up to the anchors.

Joe Kreidel's original text:

 Spectrum Wall is a small formation of high quality rock overlooking Upper Sabino Canyon, directly across the canyon from The Steep. While there are not a ton of climbs, they span across the range of difficulty from 10a to 13d, with something for everyone in between.

 Climbs are all west facing. AM shade, PM sun.

 JB adds... there is a newer route on the far right (south) end that is not posted on this page. Joe S and I TRed it before it was drilled but decided to pass since it seemed a one-move wonder. I think I know who drilled it. Dont know why they didnt post.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spectrum Wall