The North Buttress is a fun and worthwhile alpine route up one of the more aesthetic peaks in the San Juans.  Midsummer would be the ideal time to climb the route, since the rock should be dry and snow free and the snowfield at the base of the buttress will have receded somewhat.  Spring and fall could provide a more full-on alpine experience with the potential for ice and mixed climbing on the route.

Once you're at the base of the buttress, climb 5.6 rock until you're basically following a ridge (4th and low 5th) up the path of least resistance.  Continue climbing the ridge until you gain a notch below the summit (the top of the Snake Couloir).  From here, it is the same finishing pitch (5.6 or so) to the summit.

Descend the main trail to Lavender Col and drop down the scree field below Kismet and back to Blaine Basin.

North Buttress

Southwest Ridge

Direct North Rib

East Chimney

This is a high quality variantion to the

North Rib

. The first real pitch of climbing is a fun, clean, and well-protected chimney. The second pitch was also good climbing though a bit nebulous. Once you reach the top of the ridge (about halfway up the

North Rib

), it is about 1500 feet of easy fifth class to the summit.

This route is a nice, easy, class 3, alpine scramble compared to the more difficult routes on the north side of Sneffels.  If you have a 4-wheel drive vehicle, it can shorten the climb dramatically.  Hike up the 4-wheel drive road in Yankee Boy Basin and follow the Blue Lakes trail to Blue Lakes pass on the south-south west side of Sneffels.  Now hike northeast on the west side of the ridge. While hiking on the west side of the ridge, you will pass some small notches.  Hike until you have reached a very dominate notch.  Now, switch to the east side of the ridge through the notch and enter a gully rising back up to the ridge.  Climb the gully to regain the ridge, and then climb the ridge directly to the summit.  When you get out of the gully, the rock is solid, fun climbing.

The North Rib is basically a harder, more sustained, and more exposed version of the

North Buttress

, which it parallels across the Central Couloir. The setting is spectacular, the climbing is good, and the rock is decent enough for what it is (San Juan volcanic garbage).

About 500' of steep-ish climbing brings you to the crest of the rib, which then carries you to the summit ridge. Our pitch breakdown went as follows:

P1. Start in a wide crack and follow it to a ledge below the crux cracks, 5.6, 50'.

P2. Climb the hand and fist crack through a couple bulges, and then run your rope to its end on easier ground, dirty 5.10, 70 meters.

P3. Climb straight up the face and then through several steep and clean corners until you have gained the crest of the ridge, 5.7, 60 meters.

From here, simul or solo along the ridgeline until it intersects with the summit ridge around 13,800'. It is mostly 3rd and 4th Class with sections up to 5.4 or so. This is beautiful and exposed scrambling here.

Don't underestimate the amount of time this climb takes. Bailing high on route would be difficult and probably dangerous.

An easier variation exists, which cuts up to the ridgeline from partway up the Northeast Couloir. It is supposedly 5.8.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mount Sneffels