Crux at the roof on second pitch.  Really great climbing on good rock. Big runout on easier terrain keeps people off this classic.  Cruxes are protected well.

Womb with a View

Driller Instinct

Get Your Dicken's Cider

Unknown

Woodywhacker

Pull My Finger

Funky Yet Spunky

Elephant in the Womb

Stoned Wheat Thin

Brain Tissue

This is described in the guidebook as perhaps the best route at Clark Canyon. It is a beautiful, long pitch of steep climbing on great rock.

Climb the bolted, right-facing dihedral before heading out right on to the face after the fifth (?)  bolt. Climb the face to a small roof, passing it on the right, to a long, ever-steepening arete to the anchor.

Be careful lowering/rappelling off. A 70-meter rope will lower you to the first bolt of the route, from where you can downclimb to the ground. Those with less than a 70-meter rope, can use two ropes to get down or two lowers via a two-bolt anchor in the dihedral above the start.

Climb steep rock past three bolts to a break where a slightly overhanging wall goes above for two more bolts and the anchor.

Start in the dihedral as for Driller's Instinct, but continue up the corner to the top of the feature instead of heading right. There is a station just past the first roof, but skip it and climb right to the top with fun jamming and stemming. A little loose rock detracts from an otherwise very fun climb!

This route is on the far right end of Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff. Climb through a hard bulge to reach a rest on a slab. Then climb out another steep overhang, which seems a bit easier than the first, to reach a set of anchors.

The crux is pulling the 3 intimidating bulges 160 feet off the ground. The route is well protected though, and offers great climbing. You can do the route in 3 separate pitches if you are worried about rope drag, but doing it one long rope stretcher isn't a problem (make sure you have 60m or longer 50m will be to short)

Sustained and just a bit pumpy. Decent enough pockets present themselves just when you need them. I couldn't identify a specific crux. Nice, fun, straightforward, consistent route.

Crux up high pebble pinching.  Good rock quality at the crux flaky before the crux holds.

Second pitch reachy moves on huge incuts 10b

This is the obvious crack that starts as a right facing corner and joins Pull My Finger at it's second set of anchors. The start is kind of awkward and dirty. After that it gets much easier and you are mostly face climbing around the crack. If you choose, you can finish to the top of Pull My Finger in one long pitch.

I can't remember if you need a 60 or 70m rope to toprope the crack.

Climb a flared offwidth, protected by two bolts, to the face above. The climbing on the arete above is  a little sporty, particularly when climbing the twenty feet above the last bolt to the anchors.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff