This route TRs the crack on the west face of the Mid-Muffin that begins near the mantle finish on the Devil Baby Traverse boulder problem. There is a double bolt anchor on top of the Mid-Muffin that can be accessed by climbing an oak tree that leads up to the summit of the rock. The crux comes near the bottom where the crack ends in a difficult left-hand mantle with nothing for your feet.

Muffin Monster

Muff Diver

Pocket Change

Devil Baby Traverse

The right-most climb on the Mid Muffin, Muff Diver involves a slopey start into a slot, then after the first bolt, right out of the slot.  All the moss atop the rock demands that the final mantle be done with utmost care and balance.

Traverse from right to left along the base of a short cliff with a 2 bolt anchor on top (I believe it's an unclimbed 5.13? top rope project) finish up a V0 offwidth! (A harder finish might be possible - continue traversing left past the V0 offwidth and past a thin, hard, face section into a good looking up problem to finish!?)

This problem traverses the entire overhanging left face of the Middle Muffin right to left, and ends in a demanding mantle move at the end.

Description

Routes in Middle Muffin