About twenty feet left of arete is nice, tight crack. Climb it to a double bolt anchor on

Man's Best Friend

.

Rap that route.

Unknown Right Crack

Tuforkey

Almost Forgotten

SuckyWahkyMuckyFucky

Coronabushes

Man's Best Friend

Climb the dirty, bushy, right-facing dihedral, and continue up discontinuous shallow cracks. Under the overhang, traverse right to the ledge, to the two-bolt anchor atop “

Man's Best Friend

.” Most of the holds are covered with lichen and moss. Some blocks seem loose. Good pro must be cleverly placed when the rare opportunity presents. This is true adventure climbing. That said, climbing movement is good in the upper half.

The next right-facing dihedral to the left of

Coronabushes

provides interesting movement up strange features that resemble tufas. The features are more solid than those appear to be. The lower half of the pitch is dirty and would be hard to protect. The upper half is the same as that of

Coronabushes

.

Around the corner to the right of

Man’s Best Friend

is a dirty, right-facing dihedral. Using the

MBF

anchor on 6/27/20, I toproped the lower part of the dihedral, moving left and up the clean, slightly overhanging face that forms the left wall (crux), eventually reaching the

MBF

arete. To lead this, a bolt or two should first be placed on the slightly overhanging face.

P1. Climb up cracks and small ledges to a roof, and go left under the roof and following slanting cracks in dihedrals & under roofs to the left. Watch for loose blocks. At about 30 meters, set a belay at a small ledge at edge of rock face just above blocky corners.

P2. Step up, and traverse right for 7 meters then up to huge ledge. With double ropes, you may combine this with P1, otherwise the rope drag would be great.

P3. Walk right on a ledge until below a big, left-facing corner. Sprint up broken cracks using your #4.5 at a large gap. Follow cracks up and left around corners.

This has a scary start, so I traversed in from left then had my belayer remove the pro. Follow bolts up to ledge then around right side of arete then back left to clip a fixed pin under a lip on the face. Proceed up and slightly left on good holds. If you stay on arete at upper section, then it has 5.10 climbing.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Scarpa Pizzo