Instead of climbing the El Rey overhang, face climb around it on the right wall.  The moves are fun.  Once you are well past the overhang, look for an obvious place to traverse.  Move left and scramble up to the top of the rock.

Minion

Peasant's Foot

Princess

El Rey

Panther Crack

Noriega Does Panama

Arizona Crack

Dry Lake

Panama Canal

Pet Sounds

The Mikado

Dum Roodle

Burning Man

Socrates Sucks

The Return of General Noriega

Pet or Meat

Castles Burning

Whispering Chickens

California Crack

If you like physical hand and fist cracks, this is for you.  The overhang is the crux (as you'd expect); footholds on the face keep it from being 5.11  The chimney above the overhang is tight but easy.

This is a short toprope up the steep face of the block located between the start of Dum Roodle and Princess.

This climbs the flake and crack about five feet left of "The Mikado".  Climb up to a ledge, then either walk off left or continue up the easy gully above for another pitch.

About 50' right and around the corner from "Pet or Meat", is this short, overhanging crack, that doesn't reach the ground.

Interesting and well-protected friction up a clean northeast-facing slab. Get on this and get your friction on; much better than some of the more popular but no less accessible routes in the immediate area. Two stars out of five.

Retro-bolted by a member of the FA party, this now has two more bolts than it originally did. The added bolts to skip, if you wish to do it in it's original style, are the first and last bolts.

Climb along the right edge of the

California Crack

roof utilizing cracks and strange pockets to a roof encounter higher. Past the roof move left and join

California Crack

or stay direct and independent to the ledge.

Around the corner at the east end of the Feudal Wall and to the right of the Panther crack is a left facing lie-back crack and face. Climb to a bolt about fifteen feet above. The crux is getting by this bolt. They key is the hidden crack well to your right. If you can't reach it, the difficulty goes way up.

Climb up a short flake/crack  (gear; small to med cams), then up past three bolts to a bolted anchor. Worthwhile climbing.  Fun and interesting climbing.

Starts the same as

Whispering Chickens

up the initial slab to a ledge then climbs a short steep section of crack to a slab with an intermittent crack/seam/groove thing and finishes with a short section of pure friction up a smooth face.

This is a fun route with a crux about 10' off the deck. Good protection make this an excellent choice for the budding leader.

Gear anchor.

Climb to the right of "Crown Jewels" passing some chockstones to the ledge.

The second pitch climbs up left then back right to the chimney above.

This route goes up the left edge of the buttress with Castles Burning.  It has 6 or 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Improbable looking but holds appear when needed and it all goes at an easier grade than appearances might suggest.

This climbs the crack to the left of Panama Canal and shares it's anchors.  Using features on the wall left of the crack helps  with the bulge halfway up.

Located on the far right side of the wall, this route climbs a squat formation with a right slanting crack on it's right side.   Scramble up to the base and begin at a right slanting crack. From here the route climbs up and left then straight up to the top and a ledge where there is an anchor.

A steep (for Josh) route that is somewhat tricky and may seem hard for the grade first time on.

This route goes up the  buttress to the right of the second pitch of "Dum Roodle", wandering past five bolts and four bulging overhangs.

Climb a right curving crack, under the first bulge, pass this on it's right side and continue to a bolt, climb up to the second bulge. Move left, then over the overhang and climb past two more bolts to the right side of  the third bulge. Traverse left along a dike, beneath the overhang, then move over it and up under the final overhang, passing two more bolts (5.12a). Move right until possible to head up to the top.

This is the best I can describe the route from what I have gathered from guide books and looking at it. This route is way above my ability and I don't think that I know anyone who has done it.

Moves up a short slab to the ledge crux is getting past the second bolt.

Climb up under and then out the imposing roof and then follow a series of disjointed vertical and horizontal cracks up to the finishing ledge.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Feudal Wall (Right Side)