This is the best line in the central Winds, especially if parties keep to the crest of the upper arete. It's character is that of a mountaineering rock climb, with route finding issues,  sometimes unpredictably wet patches, but still,  generally enjoyable climbing on good rock. The final pitches provide withering exposure and wonderful movement up sustained cracks and chimneys. Ledges are timely and comfortable.

The first ascent climbed the shady rock left of the crest to finish, slightly easier but worthy rock. The shade is generally unappealing.

Start up the chimney/couloir mentioned in "Location", and trend left after a pitch, continuing up the lower half of the buttress (occasional 5.8) following cracks to the laid back central section.

Scramble to the base of the upper arete, then continue upwards, on or a little right of the crest to the the summit.  5.9-5.10, 4 or 5 pitches.

West Buttress

Southwest Buttress

(Originally grade 5.6, we found that to be a serious sandbag, granted, its alpine climbing so maybe you could keep it 5.6 by taking the absolute easiest path to the summit.)

3 pitches of technical climbing gets you to a very large ledge where you'll be directly above the striking "fin" of the SW buttress.

Scramble about 200 feet nearly to a large notch (with a 50 foot pinnacle on the right)

Pick the most inspiring line to the summit, three more pitches of better rock takes you to the summit.

Descent: easy hiking takes you to the south bowl, find the easiest 3rd / 4th class path to the snowfield. from the bottom of the snowfield, follow the talus to the lake. From there you'll be able to see the meadow that you originally hiked in on.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Musembeah Peak