Climb the first pitch of

The Shield

and belay.  Locate the large, ominous roof directly overhead and notice that the lower part of it continues out to the left horizontally. Climb up 30' or so trending slightly left and then climb out the roof with no gear through an obvious weakness and turn the crux lip at  .10b R/X

Place some gear just after turning the lip and head up and left on 5.9 slab and belay further up on the ramp.  A hard to find micro cam placement eases the tension a bit near the end of the slab.

The Narrow Gate

The Shield

Let's Jet

Black Pearl

Your Basic Lieback

Cornered, straight up variation

Chaucer

Air Guitar

Direct Start to Your Basic Layback

Forbidden Planet

Trouble And Strife

West Crack (aka Star Wars)

B.A.T.E. Direct

Star Track

The Sacred and the Profane

Home Free

Nova (aka Jawa?)

Sickle

Whiskey Gala

Faith, Hope, and Charity

Scorpions

Criller

Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life)

Easy Off

Do or Do Not

The Empire Strikes Back

Dihedral

Just Another Girl's Climb

Right Escape

Off The Cuff

Wired

Young, Blonde, and Easy

Fickle Finger of Eight

The Pretender

Aspenleaf Dihedral

Strolling

Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power)

Peanuts

Tracer

No Visible Means of Support

Double Cracks

Blows Against the Empire

This route has some tragic history as written in Rossiter's guidebook, but don't let that steer you away.  The crux pitch is excellent with thin technical moves that keep you thinking and searching for the correct sequence.

The first pitch is pretty contrived and hard to locate as it appears to climb a blank slab with no gear or major features? Another option is to climb an easy flake to the left and follow the ramp right to the start of the second pitch.  There is really no reason to stop and belay on the ramp since your only about 30' or 40' above the ground at that point.

The second pitch follows a thin flake with a pin and then breaks right to a bolt.  Getting to the bolt is a bit spicy, but the bolt is bomber.  Continue up a thin crack with another fixed pin and into a broken-up section of rock and belay on a ledge.  The book says there's an anchor at the end of this pitch, but we never saw one.

There is no description for the last pitch in the book, since the route write-up states that it was never completed.  But we traversed right on a lichen covered ledge and climbed straight up a dihedral to the top.  This pitch was sketchy with lots of lichen and loose rock and difficult to find gear placements.  Probably would weigh in at 10- PG13.

Walk up the ramp 12 feet.  Clip the first bolt.  Do technical reachy moves to gain the only jug (first crux).  Clip the hidden pin on the ledge and mantel up.  Clip another bolt and gun for the top on crimps and small feet (second crux).

This route is very short (30 feet) but packs a punch for a short climb.  Not a destination climb but worth doing if you are in the area.

Easy Off

has roughly the same start but exits left on the ledge part way up the route.

Black Pearl was equipped by Fred Knapp. Tech 9!

Your Basic Lieback is a great pitch, but it is short, and the belay sucks....as does getting down unless you continue up harder lines above to the summit (5.9s). This would be 3 stars for the actual climbing, but the approach onto the ledge 20 feet from the ground, the belay, and descent all suck, hence the 2 stars.... This route takes beautiful lieback/perfect hand crack, about 20 left of

Star Wars

, up steep face with a small bulge 30 feet up. The crack is only 40 feet long but is fun and sustained the whole way. It is a great beginner lead, but protect the bottom belay appropriately, and be careful on loose ledges. Continue to summit with several possibilities or traverse east on rotten strata 20 feet from belay to 2 bolt anchor, and rappel 80 feet to ground.

Climb

Your Basic Lieback

(excellent short 5.6) and traverse to bolt belay ....climb up past rotten section into steepening dihedral corner that gets steep fingers up to a large flake.

The original route, Cornered or

Dihedral

, goes left at the undercling on the flake.....straight up variation goes up the steep but fun finger crack right of the flake in the corner (solid 5.9) to a big ramp/ledge with 2 bolt belay up and right.

Rappel 80 feet to bolt belay and 100 feet from there to ground...could easily be done as 1 long and fun pitch.

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Although it is very short, this pitch is action-packed and excellent. Air Guitar climbs a clean face above Peanuts, Blows Against the Empire or Scorpion. Belay at the bolt anchor above Scorpion and the new 5.13 that joins Scorpion. (Using the bolts below for an upward anchor, you can sit on the relatively comfortable ramp and avoid the hanging belay.) The first bolt is just above the ramp, off to the left. Climb up a shallow arete with ever-increasing difficulty. The last move is a real "you gotta believe" treat! Belay off a tree and wires right above the pitch. Or, either 1) place a directional and move off left to belay before the downclimb descent or 2) place a directional and move up right  to belay at a two-pin anchor for a rappel descent or to carry on to the base of Forbidden Planet.

This is a short approach pitch (or link into as one pitch) for

Your Basic Layback

. It is listed in the Eldo Levin guidebook at PG-13, but the pro is quite good. This is somewhat chossy but less than I expected from the book description and MP comments. It is a better option for accessing

Your Basic Layback

than is the ramp scramble.

This climb is an arete and face up on the upper tier of Lower Peanuts wall, just right of the routes

Wired

and

Dihedral

.  It is some distance up and right of

Aspenleaf Dihedral

.

Aspenleaf Dihedral

is directly above the route

Your Basic Lieback

(5.6), or a scramble to the right of

Your Basic Lieback

(5.Easy).

Go up and past a slanting ledge and belay at a good stance with gear at the bottom of a good dihedral.  Move out to the right and clip a bolt on the arete, then move around the corner to the right side and out right to a second bolt before moving up.  This is the crux (5.11b).  Continue up clipping a few bolts up along the way and heading back to the arete.

Belay & rap from the good bolted anchor up top.

This is a good route with great moves.  If I weren't so stuck on multi-pitching, I might give it 3 stars, but like

Sunrider

, it's just not long enough to completely satisfy me.

This route is difficult to find by following the description in the guidebooks, but it is obvious once you are there and see it. From the base of the [Lower] Peanuts Wall, below

Your Basic Lieback

and

Star Wars

, among others, look uphill and to your right. You will see a small tower of rock with a sharp, lightning-bolt finger-crack going up, to the right, then up again, with the crack getting wider as you climb upwards. It is a good lead or fun TR. Spots are thin and cruxy, but the route is not hard at its grade. The route is generally chalked.

This is an EXCELLENT 2 pitch or one long pitch up the beautiful Lower Peanuts Wall.  Scramble to the far right and up onto the first ledge (lots of loose talus...be careful).  Find a large, obtuse corner just below a perfect handcrack in a steep left-facing dihedral (many obtuse corners so make sure you see the obvious handcrack above, some of these other corners have scary pro and are much harder).

P1. Climb the corner with variable crack and fingers at top to large loose ledge under beautiful hand crack (obvious), 5.7.

P2. Jam the hand crack for 40 feet and mantle (crux) onto small ledge, continue up V-slot with thin hands another 25 feet to small ledge....turn small roof into short V-slot that takes you to the summit.  Belay on summit ridge and descend west until you can scramble down into gully between Lower and Upper Peanuts.

This direct start to

Blows Against the Empire

offers a relatively plumb line from the ground to the anchor, adding a crux of similar difficulty, yet with a bit more spice, down low. It seems like the best, most logical way to climb

B.A.T.E

.

According to a 2010 comment from "Ryan Malarky" on

Blows Against the Empire

, there used to be a pin in the seam. It is no longer there.

Climb blocky terrain, aiming for a distinct plaque of solid rock split by a seam that opens briefly to a finger and thin hand crack. Protection is thin and tricky -- look for a crucial small cam (I placed a #00/0 Metolius offset) to the left of the plaque. Make a committing move to access the finger/hand crack where bomber gear will protect the final moves to the rotten band. Clamber up the ramp to the start of the

B.A.T.E.

slab with two bolts, and follow this to the anchor.

Another tick on Obscure Eldo route tour on Lower Peanuts.  This is a neighbor of Star Wars, 1st pitch.

Find the ledge to the base of Star Wars.  Loose, loose rock cover this ledge as you angle left and down to its start.  Consider a belay to its base.

Find a crack system and move up on easier terrain.  There is a loose wedged flake as you gain a long, horizontal edge that rattles as you bump it.  Perhaps 30 feet up the big holds run out.  You can move left to some side pulls that feels sketchy for 5.8.  Or, you can face climb right on terrain that feels harder than 5.8.  Clip the newly replaced bolt (Thanks, Steve & Bob!).  Step up and get a decent hold.  Here's that spot for that 0.33 Alien.  Traverse right to the top of the 1st pitch of Star Wars.

You can TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of Star Wars.

The Sacred and the Profane is a sport climbing history lesson.  It's hard to experience the slabby, old school style and sparse bolting on TSATP without being transported back to a time when lycra was king, and footwork, technique, and finesse were the rule.

To start TSATP, climb the start of

Peanuts

, and traverse 30 feet right along an easy ramp until you are below a small roof which is capped by a blunt arete.  Clip the first bolt, make some easy moves over the roof, and then setup for the reachy, off-balance crux.  Fight to establish on the right side of the arete and continue making bizarre, unstable moves until you reach a rest below the fourth and final bolt.  After recovering, punch through the tweaky second crux, and push through 25 feet of easy (10a), but extremely runout terrain to the anchors.

It's worth noting that just past the fourth bolt, there is a minimally reinforced flake undercling.  This hold is not foreign to the wall.  A small amount of glue was put behind the hold to ensure that it wouldn't fall off- making the route a lot harder or impossible.

Since this route is all about footwork, and technique, it's really hard to rate.  Older guidebooks suggest a 12d/13a rating.  Newer guides have indicated a 13a/b rating.  For this reason, I have given this route the vague rating of 13-.  Impeccable footwork and technique might make this route feel like 12d.  However, a lack of slab climbing experience could make this thing feel like 13b or harder.

In the end it doesn't matter.  Simply let TSATP teach you something and allow yourself to be humbled by this amazing route.

Approach this climb at lower section of the top of the Northwest face of Lower Peanuts wall by [following] the trail to the main West Arete of the wall.  From there, scramble up a left-leaning ramp to a good ledge.

From the ledge, about 40' right of the start of [Star Wars], or 20' right of Double Cracks (and the large pine tree which obscures it) you will see a large left facing open-book with a flake on the right side. Climb & stem up the corner on thin holds and sometimes thin gear. (5.10d)  This is the mental crux of the route, but it seemed safe.  After this sustained section, you will reach a ledge to belay on.

From the belay, start up and left into left-facing flake which is followed (placing gear) to a ledge.  From the rest on this ledge a bolt is visible up and right on the face.  Climb past this bolt and up into a small roof (thin crux) to clip another bolt above.  Pull through the roof and go up and left on the line of least resistance to a final short dihedral above overhang near the top (moderate).  Go up this corner on good gear to the top (5.8).

Walk up and right (southwest) on the sumit ridge to the saddle between Upper and Lower Peanuts wall, then down the loose trail to return to the base.

This route was fun, but not as aesthetic as some of the other face climbs on peanuts, such as Sunrider or Forbidden Planet.

This route, whatever it is called, is another tick on Obscure Eldo route tour on Lower Peanuts. This is a neighbor of

Home Free

and

Double Cracks

.

Find the ledge to the base of

Star Wars

. This terrain is easy to the base here. This line starts right of

Star Wars

by perhaps 40 feet.

Find a double crack system. Start just right, stem, and yard on top of a ledge. Here you face the crux. There is not much pro here though. Step up and reach to a big flake. Find a series of improbable holds all just enough to keep it 5.7. The pro is certainly spartan at best. Lichen here tells a tale of less traffic than other sort-of-classic routes nearby like

Star Wars

and

Home Free

.

Perhaps a better option for those climbing in this range: TR this line with directional pro from the top of the first pitch of

Double Cracks

There is a spot for a #1 Camalot and this can be equalized with #0.75 Camalot under the flake about 4 feet above.

There is nothing really wrong with this climb but not much to recommend it either.  The FA was done solo, which makes sense considering it is more like an easy boulder problem than an actual route.  Just a few feet right of

Fickle Finger of Eight

, a thin crack leads up under a right-leaning, arching "crack" that becomes a horizontal slot. It arches right a few feet then ascends to a ledge.  The horizontal section is the awkward crux and has a few loose bits of rock in that that can be easily enough avoided.

According to Rossiter's book, this is the "very flared, obtuse dihedral 20' right of

Star Wars

."

I presume I found this correctly, and it is also just to the right of

Double Cracks

, and can be found by referencing that climb and looking for a route by my description.

This shallow, leaning, obtuse "dihedral" sports one of the most flared shallow cracks I've ever seriously tried to put gear in. I consider myself fairly clever with gear but still ended up climbing this pitch without gear, even after using my nut tool to clean a few chunks of dirt and moss out of the crack. The sloping holds do not inspire confidence in the stances that you'd be fiddling in gear from anyway.

This is not a good route, in fact my partner declined the opportunity to follow it.

Downclimb

Double Cracks

to reach the ledge again, or continue upward on a more worthy route.

Faith, Hope, and Charity was lead-pointed over three days in late May and early June 2009 and then led all gear placed on lead. This is possibly a three star route, but some suspect holds in the first half detract from the overall movement and stellar upper crux. A combination of creative body work, mental stamina, semi-technical foot work, and a dash of power add up to good climbing.

Climb an easy slab into the right-facing dihedral. Place a few good technical cams, and grapple with the tenuous and awkward lower crux. Mid-crux some dubious gear can be placed. Botching the exit sequence into the rest guarantees carnage. You will not die, but it will not be pretty (.11c R).

From a balance rest, sew up the crack with medium stoppers. Fire to the arête and up onto the crux face. Finish on the sparsely protected face/arête just left of the last third of

Star Wars

second pitch. JIT (Just-In-Time) gear appears on the face if you search for it.

This was originally TR'ed by Mark Tarrant.

This is a worthy route.  It does not merit a serious rating if your nutcraft is good.

Start as for

Peanuts

.  Where that route cuts left at the overhang, head straight up the shallow dihedral/finger crack above.  A green Alien in a placement below a pin adds to the comfort level.  Clip a bolt and hoist yourself into a second dihedral/groove with another bolt at its top.  More climbing up and left, then back right to clip the anchor.

Criller, AKA Lock it for Wayne. Wayne Crill was seriously injured making a FFA attempt with Greg Miller on August 9, 2014 when his rope unclipped from not one but two pieces of protection as reported in

Accidents in North American Mountaineering

(conclusion: locking carabiners would have averted the accident). With Wayne and Gregs' permission, the route has been bolted. Please, keep Wayne in your prayers.

Begin just below a crack in a lie back feature up a slab to a good flat ledge. Place some finger-sized cams until you can work up a bit to clip the first bolt - best to use a quick draw with locking carabiners. Moving left past the first bolt is .11a/b. A green or purple Camalot helps between bolts four and five. The crux of the climb is traversing between bolts six and nine as there are multiple .11+ cruxes, but decent rests are sprinkled throughout. During the traverse, don't climb high into the tempting crack, but stay slightly below the bolts.

Climb out the stellar roof directly above

The Shield

. Steep climbing on mostly big clean holds leads to a few wild and innovative moves in a spectacular position. A great combination skills route for trad/sport teams - negotiate the excellent but heady .11b R ballet climbing on

The Shield

to gain the EV belay and then put on your sport face to secure the chains.

For those looking for an easier alternative approach pitch to EV, you can climb

Peanuts

or

Blows Against the Empire

and traverse left ~80' to reach the belay above

The Shield

.

From the belay atop

The Shield

, move left five feet and climb up two short angling cracks that converge. Place a good, blue #1 Metolius cam in the left crack high where it nearly converges with the right crack. Layback above the cam and rock onto the slab above finding a couple of good finger rails up high and right, and clip a bolt. You can not see the bolt from the belay. Move right five feet, and place a gold #2 Camalot, which will take the edge off clipping the second bolt next to the "tooth". You can stand up to the right of the tooth and get a great no hands shake - enjoy it as it's your last until the chains. Move left past the tooth, and latch a suit case block for clip three. Surf into the bottom left side of the "shark fin" for clip four. Get your psyche on for the crux. Hit clip five, and cope with final RP moves. See the Protection section below for helpful specifics on what draw lengths to use.

Many heart felt thanks to Steven Lucarelli, Rob Woolf, Steve Annecone, Rob Kepley, Matt McKey, Travis David, and Greg Miller for their support.

Two failed ground-up attempts in 2008 and subsequent top down inspections made it clear it required bolts. This was bolted in the Fall of 2009.

This short and somewhat grungy pitch looks unattractive but has a few cool moves and a stumper crux. It is certainly no destination, but if you like doing committing thoughtful moves, it is worthy of the bother. The route generally is in the shade.

I cleaned the route well in July of 2001, and it may remain clean for a while if it gets a little traffic.

Easy Off ascends the northernmost section of Lower Peanuts Wall, going up the wall at some fixed slings (bolt and pin?). The original 5.9 grade is a sandbag and does not reflect the difficulty of the boulder problem required to get onto the first good holds of the route. This may range from 5.10a to 5.10d, depending on your height. At 5'11", it felt like 5.10c.

Climb up and left on a thin and insecure flake to reach a ledge, a short distance from the ground. These first few moves are hard and are not protected. The slab below might twist an ankle badly, so ask your belayer to spot you. Once on the small ledge, move left to its edge, clipping the fixed pro and placing a piece if it makes you feel better.

From there, move up and then up and right to reach the slabs above and belay.

To descend, walk off left (northeast) for 30 seconds to reach the cliff base.

The Empire Strikes Back is the obtuse dihedral to the climbers right of P2 of Star Wars.  I loved this pitch, most of the moves on it are thought provoking, weird, and just fun, perfect Eldo climbing.  The line goes up the dihedral, and as we climbed it, at the bolt near the top, it goes a bit right to meet up with the short steep dihedral that Home Free finishes with.  Rossiter mentions that originally the line goes up left then "through a notch at the top".  I wasn't able to see this line, but then again, I wasn't looking too hard for it....

Dihedral is also posted on this site as

Cornered

.  Climb

Your Basic Lieback

and set up a belay.  There is a rap station to your left, but it is easier to stay near the recess where Dihedral,

Wired

, and

Forbidden Planet

begin (see Rossiter's sketch on page 136 of his new guide).

Climb through a short rotten section, then head into the obvious dihedral and cut left and climb around the left side of a positive flake.  Going straight up the steep finger crack is solid 5.9 (see the description for

Cornered

).  Once on top of the ramp, move up and right to the anchor on top of

Forbidden Planet

.

Rap down and slightly left on a rotten band to another rap station.  One more rap with a 60 meter rope gets you to the ground (just barely).

Rossiter lists this climb as a 5.9-, but his sketch shows the flake variation as 5.7.  I led it and I believe the 5.7 rating shown in the sketch.  Linked with

Your Basic Lieback

, this makes for high quality moderate climb, as well as a great warm up for

Star Wars

.

Here is a great outing for the Lower Peanuts Wall: Girl's Climb to Forbidden Planet. Begin Girl's Climb in the left facing dihedral uphill from Peanuts (trad 5.8). Cop a rest at the ledge and get a reachy clip over the roof from here. For me, pulling the roof was the crux, done on thin edges with disappearing feet, this route is very similar in character to Private Idaho at Devil's Head. The rest of Girl's Climb entails largely good edges with long runs between bolts, but the climbing never reaches beyond modedrate 5.11 with some high steps on a vertical wall. Excellent stone, sparse pro (all bolts), and good climbing. From the belay you can check out Dale Goddard's classic The Sacred and The Profane. Scramble right into a corner for the belay below Forbidden Planet.

This is a worthwhile and enjoyable climb with interesting and varied climbing and a little spice.

Climb the weakness down low for 40' to access a ledge system with some tottering choss below the obvious, left-facing flake.  Negotiate through the choss past flakes and back to good rock via cracks to fun laybacking up the flake. At the top of the flake, pull the overlap up and right following a finger crack.  This is exciting exposed climbing that is somewhat sustained and tricky to protect at first.  It is jalapeño spicy, maybe more PG than PG-13? Fun continually interesting climbing up and right takes you to the anchors on

Peanuts

.  There is quite a bit of lichen, since this is not well-trodden, but it is well worthwhile and recommended if you are in the area and/or enjoy the road less traveled.

The first pitch, as described in the Rossiter guide, is fun and  worth doing if you have a few minutes. It is only about 30 feet of climbing (fingers- to hands-sized crack that can be jammed or done as a lieback).

The second pitch is not recommended. As descibed in the guidebook, you climb a 10 inch crack behind a flake. I got into the offwidth, threw a sling around the top of the flake (the only real protection at this point), made a few offwidth moves, and swung my body to the outside of the flake. As my body was making the swing, the top several feet of the flake tilted away from the wall with me and then thudded back into place. There is a tiny (non visible) fracture through the flake. I nearly pitched off the climb while being clipped to a 500 lb. rock!! My belayer said that the top of the flake tilted so far away from the rock that she didn't understand why it went back into place. We have decided that the only reason it did, was because the momentum of my body was moving back into the wall when it tilted.

Basically, don't do the second pitch until this flake falls.

Approach this climb and belay as described for Forbidden Planet, which is just to its right side.

Start up a right-facing dihedral to the left until it is possible to move up and to the right in a right-leaning crack.  Place gear and move up and right, following the crack to its intersection with the left-facing dihedral (a 5.9- appropriately named "

Dihedral

") to your right.  You will intersect the dihedral near a flake.  Place good gear and step up and left until a good ledge is reached.

Go up and right to rap from the top of

Forbidden Planet

.

Young, Blonde, and Easy is a terrific mixed route left of

The Shield

, just about where the trail arrives at Lower Peanuts. Spot a couple of fixed pins along a short, very thin crack about 45 feet up. This is the start of the hard climbing. Make your way to the first knifeblade (not hard and reasonably protected), back up the KB if possible, and head up the thin flake crack, placing reasonably good small RPs and tiny wires. At the top of the crack, you can clip a better pin and soon a bolt. A desperate mantel gains a sloping stance. Puzzle your way up a shallow corner past another bolt and pin to reach the anchor. Lower/rappel.

Despite the pins and bolts, this feels very much like a typical Eldo trad lead. The cruxes are puzzling, but if you're good on your feet you may be able to hang out and decipher the moves. On the other hand, this is also one of those slabby climbs that manages to leave your whole body feeling worked.

This is yet another obscure little route....

If you seek this climb, find it on the far ight side of Lower Peanuts.  It is right of

Star Wars

and just right of

Home Free

.  It is squeezed between

Off the Cuff

and Sickle.  It has a pleasant if brief, 5.8, crux dihedral.

This climb starts up in a short, thinnish, left-facing dihedral just right of a wide cleft (10") called

Off the Cuff

.  Small gear, a bit of stemming, and liebacking and you're through the crux.  You can continue upward in a chimney with an interesting but easy roof move.  Find a belay.  Exit easily right to 3rd class terrain & descend.  There is lichen and a bit of loose rock here.

I found these notes on this route as I was reminiscing about climbing with a young man, Ryan, a son of a good friend of mine, who is no longer with us in body.  It was his first outdoor climbing day.

This climb is a flake and crack system in an open book dihedral.  The line is attractive, but short and tweaky.  The initial section of the route does indeed look like a 30' tall Aspen Leaf.

Aspenleaf Dihedral is directly above the route

The Scared and the Profane

.  Few climbers would approach the route by this pitch, so consider getting there by going up and right of

Blows Against the Empire

(5.11) or

Peanuts

(5.9) or down and left of

Just Another Girl's Climb

(5.12) or

Your Basic Lieback

(5.6), or a scramble to the right of

Your Basic Lieback

(5.Easy).

Set a belay on the ledge from gear or the bolt anchors above

Just Another Girl's Climb

(up and right of Aspenleaf's start).

Place a few small pieces on the right side of the aspen leaf and step up off of the ledge into the slightly overhanging route.  This is the first crux (balancy 5.10).  Continue up and left, crossing the dihedral at the leaf's tip to flakes on the left.  Place gear whenever possible, as there will be places where it is not so good.  A fall should be plenty safe if this is considered. From the top of the leaf, climb easier rock (lower angle) up and left near a crack to reach a ledge with a tree and belay.

From the belay, one can scramble up to the summit ridge or move over and finish on

Wired

.  To descend, get to the bolt-anchors of

Forbidden Planet

and rap down to the starting ledge, and then from the bolt anchors of

Just Another Girl's Climb

to the ground.

Better yet, do

Forbidden Planet

too - it's a good route and you are up there anyway.

This is mostly very good climbing, if you choose the right line.  The quality, the crux, and the run-outs all depend on precisely what line you contrive to fit the best features in, but reasonable gear, solid rock, and fun moves can be had for the price of 5.7. It is there if you look for it.

This indirect line features two very different cruxes. Begin at a radically leaning right-facing corner.

P1: Climb crux moves up the corner to a small overlap at 20 feet. Continue into a ramp to a ledge at the bottom of a huge roof (5.11c, 70).

P2: Traverse left on rotten rock and around the corner to a bolt in a tiny, right-facing dihedral. Make a difficult reach to good holds and exit up and right. Watch rope drag (5.11a, 50).

On the Northwest Face of Lower Peanuts Wall, locate a few dead trees leaning against the lower section.  Just down and left from these is a left-leaning ramp that can be scrambled to a good ledge, some 70' from the ground.  Move down and left on this ledge until a shallow, left-facing dihedral, which curls right to become a flake-roof.  A crack about 10' right of there goes up to intersect the dihedral where it bends to the right to become the afore mentioned roof.  This crack is the start of Peanuts.

From this position, a few bolted routes are visible.  To the right you can see The Scared and the Profane (5.13) and Just Another Girl's Climb (5.12), some distance down and to the left, Blows Against the Empire (5.11) is visible.

Start up the crack, arching left to follow it to the intersection of the dihedral and roof.  Place gear and step left across the overhang, going a few moves further left through underclings before getting gear again.  This is the crux.  Once a vertical crack is available, begin moving up again until a good ledge is reached.

Go up and right on the ledge to place gear or belay on bolts.  Rap from the fixed station or finish on Forbidden Planet (5.10d, sport) Wired (5.9) or Dihedral (5.9-). There is a new fixed anchor at the top of the vertical crack, so there is no need go right across the ledge system to get down. It's 100 feet or a little less to the ground from the anchor.

Locate the route

Trouble and Strife

, which is difficult to find by following the description in the guidebooks, but is obvious once you are there and see it. From the base of the Lower Peanuts Wall, below

Your Basic Lieback

and

Star Wars

, among others, look uphill and to your right. You will see a small tower of rock with a sharp lightning-bolt fingercrack. going up, to the right, then up again, with the crack getting wider as you climb upwards.  This is Trouble and Strife.

Go up the trail just past T&S, around a corner to a North-facing wall on this same small buttress. Look up on this face. Climb this short wall to the top.  That is the route Tracer.  After this, continue on something more worthwhile, like

Your Basic Lieback

and

Star Wars

, or maybe don't. It's not really worth the hassle if you are not going to go upward from there.

This route starts out above a cut off stump and is 5.8 for the first half, this section is R and takes small RPs behind a flake that may expand. Head for a ledge with a small bush.  The second section goes right of the bush.  I ended up going right and clipping a pin on Easter Island, then going right to clip a bolt and back cleaned the pin.  Now, head straight up to the notch in the roof; this is the 5.10 section.  Find a pin and some gear and power through the roof.  The final 20 feet are on lichen-covered 5.6 find your own way up  the lichen.

Rossiter's book says this is a two pitch route, but it sure is fun in one pitch.  The book says to belay at the tree after the 5.8 where you will find a pin.

According to Rossiter, this pitch is presumed to be the way that K. Donald & his partner reached the second pitch of Star Wars to do the F.A. of that pitch.

From the ledge at the base of Starwars and Home free, about halfway between the two routes, a large pine tree sits near the base of an arete.  A few cracks ascent the arete for 60' near to this tree at the base.

Climb up and left on two cracks (mostly easy) to the ledge contiguous with the first pitch of Star Wars.

This pitch is easy with plenty of good gear and is a reasonable practice lead for a newbie.

This route begins with the same 4th class approach as

Peanuts

(look for a dead horizontal tree part way up the cliff). Set up a belay about 15 left of the start of

Peanuts

.  The crux is above the first bolt and is height-dependent to reach a good edge.  The short slab is followed by a short crack, which has one difficult move.  Follow the crack to a ramp, up and right, continuing to the desired anchor.  This route provides a good approach pitch for

Air Guitar

.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Lower Peanuts