Sport climbing in typical Runway style.  Beautiful sustained face climbing with an ultra-classic cruxy topout.

Aviatrix

The Mile-High Club

Boarding Pass

Aerostar

The Right Stuff

Eyes Wide on Arrival

Top Gun

Drunk Rednecks with Golf Clubs

Stone Temple Pilot

Ergo

Learning to Fly

Clip Art

A Day with Dr. Diablo

Holding Pattern

Space Shuttle

Flight Simulator

JetStream

Pitch

Mocos Locos

Start the Machine

Airfoil

Turbulence

Long sustained quality climbing with great position and lots of exposure.

This is a face climb disguised as a crack with a few hand jams thrown in.

First two bolts are first crux.  Last three bolts are upper crux.  Rivals quality of Mocos Locos.  Look for more routes near here soon.

Long, sustained, vertical to overhanging.  Great, clean line with a wild last couple of moves.  In the midsection of the climb, it is slightly easier to move to the right to the crack early; going straight up is more aesthetic and only slightly harder (11d instead of 11c, or something like that).

Requires all your technical Diablo skills for this one.  Great Fun!

Climb the crack in the dihedral for 5 bolts then traverse right at the bulge. Work your way up the prow on good holds into the large corner system. Face holds lead to stemming as the route steepens, capped off by jugs over the final roof. This route will seem a lot harder without solid trad skills.

A fun, good sport route on the right end of the Early Wall. Called the easiest sport route at Diablo, it's a good way to warm up and/or get used to the rock. Lots of good ledges for hands and feet to a relatively thin crux near the top.

Climb through a series of interesting bulges right from the start to a vertical face with technical movement.

Fun moves up the buttress.  Tricky thin moves between big holds down low and a 2nd crux at the bulge section midway up.  More easier steep climbing on big hold above this, then the angle lessens for the last 2 bolts to the big ledge.   

  This climb is used to access You're Scaring the Horses.

One of the entry level climbs at the Runway Wall, though not an easy pitch by any standards. 

  Start left side of the wide crack on some face holds to clip the first bolt.  Find a few nice hand jams to good holds through the next couple bolts before heading left onto the face.  Staying in the crack a few extra moves may help bypass some tricky but fun face moves through the lower part of this route.

Climb your way up crimps, sidepulls, and very few jugs. This route is quite sustained with a slightly overhung, and crimpy crux at the sixth bolt. Enjoyable and technical.

This route flirts with the arete but mostly climbs the face just left of the arete. Plenty of side pulls lead through a couple of small bulges to the crux near the last bolt. The anchor placement feels a bit contrived between a good rest and what appears would be a couple more good moves.

This is a FANTASTIC addition to the Runway Wall.  I was really excited over how great the movement and rock quality turned out on this line.  A MUST DO!!!! 

  Start up a sweet hand crack over a bulge. Climb through really fun, steep, and technical dihedrals, pull another steep roof onto great, pumpy, face climbing all the way to the anchors.  The crux is getting through the dihedrals, up onto the face, and to the bowling-ball-hold rest.  A real thinker.

This is the approach pitch for the Observatory Ledge.  It is also a pretty good stand alone sport route with fun moves up an aesthetic arete, one of only a few moderates at this grade at Diablo.

A fun short route, tricky through a steep start, then technical and thin up high.

Several cruxes of the grade interrupted by some good rests. Start up a steep arete to a stance that leads right around the arete to a good rest with a bomber hand jam behind a large block (some folks think this block is scary loose, but a 48" crowbar couldn't make it vibrate, so I'm not too worried). When refreshed, access the steep face above through some delicate, airy, but easy moves to set up for the techy crux. Save something for the top! **  110"    Tie a knot in the end of your rope so you don't drop your climber when lowering with a 60m.**

 Rope stretch will get you to the ground with a 60.

Start at a flake in the groove left of the wide crack moving left to the blunt arete at the 2nd bolt. Continue up the arete climbing left of the bolts then back right after the 4th bolt. Finish the pitch just right of the bulge and over the final notch/roof to the anchors

A fun shorty route, tricky through the start.

Make a committing move off the block, then up with ground fall potential past a couple more bolts in a left facing corner (bolts are to the right out on the face and difficult to see). Step out of the corner around the arete to the right (crux) and up a slabby section. Continue up the steep face on good holds wandering a bit, mostly right when things get thin. At the anchor, the clipping hold out left is a loose block! be careful. There is a fixed rope to the right of the anchor, presumably to access La Nariz.

Climb the obvious crack feature using face holds and the occasional jam. This climb will seem harder without trad climbing skills.

Make 2 casual moves to a solid rail and clip the first bolt high.  Then climb through sustained technical movement over 2 roof bulges and fun holds to the steep finishing dihedrals.

Sustained technical movement to a good stance under roof overlaps, then beautiful layer-cake headwall finish.  Not over til its over!

Located on the central part of the Early wall, this crag is at the lowest point along the cliff band and provides the longest single pitch routes on great quality lower tier rock, and access to some routes on  the upper tier.  This crag sees sun for about an hour or two in the early morning making it a great warm weather destination.  Routes tend to be challenging, tenuous, sustained, and contain multiple cruxes.  A great training ground for the experienced sport climber.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Runway (Lower Tier)