This is the furthest left route at The Riviera. Climb a short fingercrack (stoppers and small cams helpful) to a 3-bolt face with crystals. It would be high quality if it was twice as long.

Lease Agreement

Unknown Trad Line

Dancing Hippos

The Minstrel

Au Natural

Bosch Blanket Bingo

Le Nouveau Riche

Abandonment

Topless Etiquette

Sea Breeze

Devin's Dihedral

Birthday Suit

Silver Glide

Beach Bum

Le Nouveau Riche Variation

New Lease on Life

Zig Zag Crack

Chouette

Infestation

Splash

Monte Carlo

This is the furthest route to the left at The Riviera and is to the left of

Lease Agreement

.

Start by climbing up a chossy, angling crack system to a tree where pro is slim.  Be aware of plenty of loose boulders.  Then climb up some severely lichen covered steps.  Once the hard climbing is over, angle right 30-40 feet to a tree with a rappel anchor.  Rap ~90 feet to the bottom.

Some serious gardening and brush work is needed on this route to be even considered for a star.  Why I thought this was a good idea to climb, I am still pondering.

This is a line that is just to the right of

Splash

and links enough cracks to make it a reasonable enough line, albeit squeezed, like much of The Riviera.  It's hard not to wander too far left onto

Splash

or too far right onto what is now

Infestation

.  Still, if you want a trad line to scratch up your gear, this could be yours.  Further, this could be continued above for additional pitches.

This is the fifth route from the left. This route starts right of

Sea Breeze

, and stays so close to it that it's not totally clear where one is supposed to climb to avoid the holds on that route. Very contrived.

This is the sixth route from the left. Au Natural climbs the left-most of the two dihedrals on the Riviera (the right dihedral being

Devin's Dihedral

) which separates the five short routes on the left from the rest of the crag. The bottom 2/3 of the route takes good pro, but it's a little run out up top. Interesting moves right off the ground using a combination of face, chimney, and stemming moves.

Once you reach the top of the dihedral, there are a couple of options:

Option 1: place a #2 Camalot for a directional, then traverse right to anchors above

Devin's Dihedral

. This is easier, but have some one second the route to clean it; the anchor placement makes it difficult to clean on rappel.

Option 2: continue up and left to the anchors above

Sea Breeze

and

The Minstrel

. This increases the runout but offers a more direct line from the anchors.

If you hauled your gear up with you to climb some of the mixed routes, you might as well do this one before you leave.

This is the [eighth] route from the right. It is a fun line with several variations.  It can be done as a 5.8 if you take the easiest line, or a 5.10 if you take the hardest line.

This route is a bit of a squeeze job (stay left of the bolt line or you'll trespass on

Topless Etiquette

!) in between

Topless Etiquette

and

Silver Glide

. Not included in the Rossiter guide.

Climb straight up a face past three bolts.  Move up right and reach left to clip the fourth bolt above the lip of a roof.  You now have three options:

1. Traverse left to a good crack to surmount the roof (8).

2. Tackle the roof straight on via a finger pocket and a reach up left to the good crack (10b).

3. Climb the roof on the right (9).

Continue up to the second roof at the fifth bolt.  You now have two options:

1. Move right around the roof using a groove (8).

2. Tackle the roof directly using thin holds (10b to 10d). The more you stay in line with the fifth bolt, the harder the climbing.

Continue up past a final bolt to the anchor.

This is the [fifth] route from the right. This route is just to the right of

Topless Etiquette

. It is interesting, because it's only got three bolts in about 60-70 feet of climbing. I think this gives the route its character. It's a really slabby route that requires good balance and footwork, and it's quite runout. There is deckout potential if you fell off of easy moves. The three bolts are at the only three places you really need them, and not everywhere in between, just for the sake of having a bolt every four feet. Be confident at the grade and style of climbing.

The crux comes at the second and third bolts, with sustained thin slab climbing up a right-facing corner.

You can toprope this route after leading

Topless Etiquette

to the higher anchor.  Place a directional runner on the top bolt if you do this.

This is the third route from the left. Climb up and right past overlaps between two black streaks. After the fourth bolt, continue straight up (placing a yellow Alien for pro) to a higher anchor, or angle left along a quartz dike to a lower anchor shared with the routes on the left.

Fourth route from the right. This is probably the best route at the Riviera, at least in terms of sustained quality. Fun and reasonably long. Climbs overlaps and jugs up a slabby wall just right of a small overhanging section (

Bosch Blanket Bingo

).

Near the top, move left to the anchor atop

Bosch Blanket Bingo

, or continue straight up to a higher anchor (bring a #.75 or #1 Camalot to protect the move to the anchor if you do this finish).

This is the fourth route from the left. It is tied for best Riviera route with

Topless Etiquette

. This climb ascends a steep black-streaked slab with sustained, fun moves. I thought it was somewhat more difficult than Rossiter did, making me suspect that he got the ratings on this route and

Silver Glide

reversed or something. Very fun.

Climb the black-washed, right-leaning corner right of

Au Natural

.  Very sketchy small pro going up the corner.  Near the top of the corner, clip a bolt on the left wall.  Continue straight up, or step right and climb a slab to the anchor.

Fun stemming and laybacking up the corner, and thin slab climbing at the top.  A good route.  Can toprope this route after leading

Au Natural

.

Start between

Devin's Dihedral

and

Silver Glide

.  Make a steep face move past a bolt, then a difficult step up and right (or a mantle) to a narrow ledge (#1 or #2 Camalot for pro). Climb up and right, joining

Silver Glide

, past four more bolts to the anchor.

This climb can also be toproped after leading

Au Natural

.

This is the sixth route from the right, just left of

Bosch Blanket Bingo

. Climb 20' of easy climbing to the obvious, small overhang with a flared fingercrack in its right side. This route is really fun... for about 10 feet. Then it's back to slab. It is not sustained (but not that easy after the crux either), and worth doing if you're in the area. This is easier for tall folks.

This route climbs the face between

Au Natural

and

Devin's Dihedral

.  Scramble up and climb a left-arching crack just left of

Devin's Dihedral

.  Clip a bolt and make a crux move up and right.  Work back left toward the arete, then traverse right to the anchor atop

Au Natural

/

Devin's Dihedral

.

This route can be top-roped after leading

Au Natural

.

This is a variation on

Le Nouveau Riche

that involves trad gear and skipping the first bolt.  It is only for those who greatly dislike falling and have climbed here a bit but don't mind a dolt point.  It's been done a while back, but yesterday's warm sun invited another lap.

Start as for

Le Nouveau Riche

.  A yellow C3 fits in the top of the crack a few feet below the bolt.  Slab up.  You may get a red Alien in the crack before the jugs above the unclipped bolt...if you don't, it'll be a decent runout.  Head up along a crack left of the 2nd & 3rd bolts of

Le Nouveau Riche

on moderate terrain.  Finish at the 2 bolt anchor.

This can also be toproped for an easier version of

Le Nouveau Riche

.

This is the second line from the left at the Riviera. Ascend a clean 30-foot face on good rock, then wander up the slab above (much easier climbing) for another 20 feet.

It is 9+ if you take the easiest line; 10d to 11a if you climb straight up the bolts.

This is a line that follows obvious natural weaknesses around

Bosch Blanket Bingo

.  It's actually fairly moderate in difficulty.  Richard probably solo'ed it in tennies.  The name is obviously a descriptive thing.

Start somewhere around

Bosch Blanket Bingo

and angle left to the widish crack. Follow the groove rightward.  Angle leftward perhaps 35 feet up.  Zag rightward again towards the 2 bolt anchor.

This is now the fourth route from the right. This route is great for morning sunshine. It also has fine granite and varied climbing making this a pleasant cruise. There is no drama on gear, no drama on lead. It is a good warm-up.

Start by climbing up the left side of a large flake via a wide crack. Gain a comfortable stance on top of the flake and then follow two bolts across the face via nice cracks to gain a left-facing corner that angles up to the right. Follow another crack that angles left at a break in the corner. Follow this crack to a steep face and then past two more bolts to the right to gain the anchor a new, distinct anchor with Mussy hooks separate from

Splash

. Rap 80' to the ground.

This route has a Dream Canyon-esque feel with its fine granite and mixed gear. I don't know why, but I like this route; maybe because it's nice and long, you can actually slot a nut or two, and it's not right in the thick of things. In French the name can be translated as 'splendid' or 'swell'. I concur.

This was named for the 2 wasps seen in a crack at the start. (No wasps were harmed during the ascent).

Begin in a flared dihedral and follow 5 bolts passing a very small pine bush. Some supplemental gear may be needed.

Once the farthest right line at the Riviera...now this is probably 4th or 5th route from the right. Identify a high bolt that works up and right over some blocky stuff, then up a slab with horizontal cracks, then finishes up a small headwall onto some choss at the top. High quality granite and nice, easy gear placements make this one safe and well bolted in my opinion.

Eds.  Actually, there is another natural line to the left of this route...and now even bolted lines, too.

This is currently the rightmost route at The Riviera.  It has 3 possible starts.  The first 2 add length but are a bit contrived.  You can start where

Infestation

starts and move right in to a groove, start at a crack that angles to a spike and then up, or just below the 1st bolt.  The bit around the 1st bolt is probably the brief crux.  It eases to probably 5.4 terrain around the 2nd bolt.  You have to force yourself a bit right at the 3rd bolt to avoid the top of

Infestation

.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Riviera