This route is a variation to

Chute The Moon

, moving left part-way up the 2nd pitch. It aims for the upper slabs as well, but the climbing is easier than on

CTM

.

P1: Climb P1 of

Chute The Moon

(.10).

P2: .10b, 11 bolts, 2 or 3 cams (1" to 2"), 90', 2-bolt anchor. Climb

Chute The Moon

through the strange overhang, move left to a vertical corner and then into a left-facing dihedral with a crack (gear) that turns into a left-angling undercling. Climb straight up the perfect slab above past three bolts (.10a).

Chute Out

Nice Chutin'

Chute Dang!

Further Up and Further In

Chute The Moon

Point and Shoot

Chutes and Ladders

Chute 'em Up

The Laundry Chute

Overchute

Presently the second bolted line found as you hike up The Chuting Gallery. Nice Chutin' climbs the vertical, black wall in the narrowest part of the gully, starting 10' right of a 3' deep, left-facing dihedral. Two interesting cruxes are encountered on the way to a rest at a small ledge with a little tree. Climb gently past the tree and deal with a tricky section (.10/+?) that should keep you guessing. (The cam is handy between bolts 1 and 2). 2.5 stars.

Start on the first 2 bolts of

Futher Up and Further In

to ascend a short ramp, or use the fixed line (good condition as of June 2021) to get to the base of the route. Currently a stickclip is recommended for the first bolt!

Crimp through the beginning 2 bolts where holds appear just when you need them. After a move or two through some unfortunate rock, enjoy the next 50' of flowy 5.10 climbing through jugs, sidepulls, and underclings. At the last bolt, choose your own adventure! Left or right, the grade stays the same. One way is much easier if you are short, the other is much easier if you are tall!

Start at a ramp immediately below the cliff that marks the end of the Chuting Gallery. Climb up the ramp to steeper terrain. Continue up, navigating a couple tricky step-arounds, until at the base of a right-angling seam. Pull a couple moves (crux) to reach the seam, then continue up the seam until it ends. Continue straight up using some cool pockets and big reaches to a ledge with a two bolt anchor and rap rings.

Chute The Moon aims for the dark slabs high up in The Chuting Gallery. This upper wall is visible from the routes on Ra. The route is done in two pitches with the best climbing found on the upper slab. Start about 60' up-gully from Nice Chutin'.

Pitch 1: 5.10, 5 bolts, 65', 2-bolt anchor.  Follow a line of gray bolts just right of a short arete. After 30' the angle drops and then it's 5.4 to the anchor.

P2: .11a, 13 bolts, 95', 2-bolt anchor. Veer left off the belay, work through an odd, little overhang (.9+), and then up a steep wall below the upper slab. The crux is mid-way up the slab and is .11a or b if you follow the bolt-line directly, but apparently it can be avoided at .10 by moving slightly right... Getting to the anchor seems a little scary unless done correctly (layback left).

Point and Shoot is a super fun route. It's all about the underclings.

Climb up the easy slab for 20 feet until you reach the first bolt. Clip the second bolt, and grapple with underclings until you can reach a good right hand.  Cross with left hand to a jug. Make a big move up and right to a jug, and then carefully clip the next bolt.

4 more bolts and a fixed nut takes you to the top.

This is a nice warm-up for the wall. It climbs the black streak that turns into a corner up top. Climb up the easy slab (no bolts) for 20 feet until you get to the ledge. Kneebar at the 3rd bolt.

Presently the first bolted route in The Chuting Gallery, Chute 'em Up climbs a nice 92 degree wall on very good stone. Scramble up to a flat tree and then shoot up a steep wall through three .11/.11+ sections before a rest at a crack/flake (gear) @ 55'. At 6' tall, there are no real .12 moves, but the accumulation of .11+ probably merits a .12a rating (under 6' tall uses a slightly harder, alternate sequence).

The moves just below the flake (bolt 7) involve a blind toss that could stymie an onsight attempt... A final .11- section at the last bolt tops it off.

Climb up the corner to the roof, then place a #1, and head left out the roof, pasting and cruxing as you go. There is a two bolt anchor at the top.

Hard moves right off the deck lead to more moderate terrain. Continue up the face following various features and weaknesses until deposited below the roof at the top of the crag. Fire the roof to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor and rap rings.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chuting Gallery