Climb out the 15ft, low horizontal roof of varying width and difficulty. After pulling the lip, continue on easier, runout terrain to an alcove on a grassy ledge where you can build an anchor and/or walk off.

Festering Lester

Party Panties

Face Time

Southern Dynamics

Party Favor

Perfect Pancakes aka Up Your Buttress

Step off the ledge and climb the steep face past a few cruxes to a ledge system to rest.  Traverse right to a pretty blank face with one shallow pocket low on it.  Either pull straight up on it to the sloper ledge above, or if you're shorter, match in the pocket and make another move right to a sidepull befor moving up.  Above, delicate moves on slopers leads to the anchors.

Pull the one tough move from a hanging start and onto a ledge at the bottom of the big slab. Here the route splits. Take the left bolt line and traverse the horizontal crack. Float up on cool holds and endless easy ledges up to the base of a small, steep roof. Row through good holds up to a mega jug and clip the anchors. Very fun climb, would get another star if it was more sustained.

Sustained thuggery with a tricky crux surmounting ledge at the second bolt.

Start under a small roof and pull up on to the face (stick clip first bolt or reach over from the adjacent boulder). Surmount a ledge after the second bolt and step left and up to clip the third bolt. This may be PG because you wouldn't want to fall here although the terrain is easy. Climb ledges on the face up to a second small roof, reach over it and go left to the anchors.

Steep climbing on mostly good holds lead to the 3rd bolt. Then climb much easier gound to a ledge and the anchors. This is a good route for onsighting, as most of the holds can be easily seen from the ground.

 Listed as "Up Your Buttress" in the Fennel guide.

Good rock, mostly south facing, same as rest of Cave Creek.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Southern Dynamics