The crux happens after you leave the dihedral and pull onto the orange face.

Hootenanny

Planet Janet

The Tube

California Dreamin'

Git'er Done

Poster Child

Hair of the Dog

Zipper

[Redacted]

Ramp Festival

Crouching Tony, Hidden Trundle

Zipper is probably one of the best 5.11s in the canyon. The climb features sustained climbing, fun sequences, and great rock throughout.

Start by climbing up an initial easy section protected by one bolt before a wide horizontal break/crack that runs across the wall. Just above, is the second bolt in a gray rock bulge. Climb above this bolt into a sustained set of moves that take you past the next four bolts with the crux coming at the sixth bolt. Easier climbing leads to the top and the anchor. The middle section of this route can prove perplexing and even frustrating because many, or most, of the holds that look like jugs from below turn out to be horrible slopers. Instead, make great use of a series of sidepulls and pinches while constantly moving your feet around to make the best use of them. The climb doesn't offer any kind of decent rest until the last bolt. Enjoy.

A unique and somewhat awkward climb that ascends an interesting groove or tube feature. Personally, I thought the climbing was really fun because of its out of the ordinary character.

Climb into the groove, clipping two pins next to each other. Move right out of the groove, clipping a bolt. Above, make use of the groove while clipping a chain thread. Finish on easier terrain above, protected by bolts.

Climb the "tube" feature at the bottom of the route with unique but fun movement. Above, climb the steep face with some tricky and devious sequences on good limestone. A stout middle section is capped by a cruiser finish on big holds.

This is a great route and a must-do for the Neighborhood.

A fun and enjoyable climb on good rock. Climb through the "hole" at the bottom and onto the face above. Climb the clean cut dihedral and finish on the moderate face above.

Start in the chimney, climbing up to a fixed pin before heading left to a thread. Above, clip bolts on the steep face, climbing on good, incut holds that sometimes can be deceptively hard to read. In the middle of the route stay to the right of the bolt line before going back left at the top.

It is a pretty decent and enjoyable route that is a full 80 feet.

Climb easy terrain past two pins before traversing left to a third pin and the first bolt. Climb on yellowish-orange rock that looks chossy but appears to have cleaned up well. Above, the rock gets better and the climbing stays pretty mellow the anchor.

Starts with a difficult pull off the ground on slopey feet before hitting a nice pocket. From there, it's mostly easy jug hauling on super fun, water sculptured huecos. If this thing was 100 feet instead of 25 feet, it would be a 3 or 4 start climb. But, it's not.

"Bitch Slap" shares the first high bolt with "

The Tube

" on the right edge of the small cave. From there, Bitch Slap goes a bit left and straight over a small roof. The crux comes just after the lip and involves hugging and slapping to side-pulls.

A fun way to spice up the route is to stick-clip the first bolt and boulder out the back of the cave. This adds a nice pump and some inverted beta. If you grease off of the big, slippery holds low down, though, there is potential to fall on your head, even if you're on a rope.

Climb up easy rock to the high first bolt (there's a pin to clip down low if you're worried). The crux comes around the 3rd bolt with good, sustained, and thoughtful climbing before and after. Above, you'll latch on to some big pockets before finishing on easier terrain to the anchors. This climb trends right the entire way and you may feel slightly perplexed at some of the moves as spots are devoid of straight-on edges to pull on, instead relying on a lot of sidepulls and pinches with feet out right. Good rock throughout this climb with enjoyable movement.

Easy climbing on the low angle face leads to steeper, enjoyable climbing above. I always thought this climb looked easier than it actually is and mistook it for a 5.9 until I gave it a go one day.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Zipper Buttress