A nickname (or maybe alternate name) for this route is "Useless Limbs."  As you first move up towards the dike, your legs feel useless.  Later, your arms feel useless.  A hand crack leads to a horizontal crack and then to a stance with your hands on the dike.  Work your arms and get up onto the dike.  Work your legs and do a balancy traverse up and right to the top.  It's an exciting route.

Sinner's Swing

Life in the Fast Lane

Jane's Getting Serious

Control

Tarzan

EBGB's

Zondo's Perks

Cheetah

This route follows a prominent right slanting dike and makes for an excellent approach pitch to EBGB's.  It is pretty worthwhile, but not very sustained.  The bolts are in the right places and it is not too stressful for the follower.

Follow the dike up and right past 3 well spaced bolts with a tricky crux between the 2nd and 3rd.  Easy climbing on poor quality rock up and right.  Surmount a small block with a finger crack and continue up the upper half of the dike (5.10-) past one more bolt on better rock.

Around and left from EBGB's is this excellent route that sees even less traffic than it's neighbor.

An undercut and bouldery start (very reachy) leads to high-quality face moves that end atop the EBGB's block. Originally done with a point of aid at 5.11b A0, the route was later freed. There is an anchor in the center of the block (same as for EBGB's) and the rap is off bolts on the opposite side of the formation.

This is a very short thin hand jam and lieback.  The rock is poor.  We didn't find any fixed anchor and had to leave gear (wired nuts) for a rap anchor.

This is the bolted climb furthest right of the EBGBs start that climbs up the right corner/arete of the block

This route had a bit of a reputation back in the day and even now with higher numbers and sticky rubber it still commands respect.

Established ground-up by the prolific Dave Houser and a cast of talented locals, this thin face route epitomizes the Joshua Tree experience with a funky start leading to thin face and finishing with a memorable runout to the top.

The crux comes at the start in the form of an difficult mantle after which the route heads left around a blunt arete onto an undercut high-angled slab. Tenuous smears and edges past two closely spaced bolts are the crux of this section but steel yourself for the exciting finish with 5.8 smearing 20 feet out from the last bolt. Four stars out of five.

This fun, strenuous hand crack is on the back side of EBGB's boulder, in a shaded location.  It is next to the descent chimney, and follows a slanting flake.

Starting off a block, toprope the face 15 feet right of EBGBs.

This is easily toproped from the rappel anchor.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in EBGB Block Area