This route is on the south side of the rock marked with JMPT in the photos. It is very obvious and very fun!

The pitch starts in a very wide chimney, but there is no lack of holds, and it is low angle until about 20' up where there is a crack facing outward toward the belayer, and it becomes a fist-sized crack with hands throughout as well. This small section of crack is the crux. After the 20' feet of vertical hand crack, you come to a 30' traverse along a beautiful section of rock where it creates a large seam and there are knobs all over and great holds. You come to a last 10' section of hand crack, and you top out. Following is hard as the traverse creates a lot of rope drag.

Boner Jam

Unknown

Hazel's Way

Fuck You

JMPT

Slip into something more comfortable for this one.

P1: climb a fun, full body press, squeeze chimney. Stem into a hand crack to gain a massive ledge, 5.8, 70'.

P2: move up a deceivingly difficult but rewarding, left-leaning hand crack that widens up to OW near the topout, 5.8, 60'.

There is a section of rock among the big drop towers with intersecting lines that go from side-to-side and top-to-bottom forming a obvious cross. Bushwhack to this rock, and approach with a scramble and a slightly sketchy mantel on a boulder to get to the cracks right on this main feature. There are two cracks right by each other. The left crack provides better pro and is easier (5.8), and the right crack is harder and thinner with scarce protection (5.10-).

This route is truly stellar. It is the most obvious, good moderate around. The line is fairly visible from the approach, and the stellar P2 hand crack is all by itself in the middle of a large face.

P1: shimmy up an interesting but somewhat dirty squeeze chimney to a ledge. Walk over to a long, vertical, hand crack, and get into it! This has somewhat tricky gear and thins out a bit higher up. Belay from a huge ledge, 100', 5.8.

P2: fire up an incredible, gear-devouring hand crack that stands all by itself on the large summit dome with belay options, 100', 5.7.

This is a 5.8 squeeze chimney. The crux comes about halfway up rotating to face right from left.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Staircase Towers