fun route, some loose rock on the right side of arete beware

Night Owl

Ruffled Feathers

Sad Crack

Feather in My Cap

Beckey Route

Forty Bucks in the Dark

Notch Route

The Dirty Bird

Mark's Route

Shin Smasher

Get the Pever Fever

Whack Crack

Friend of the Devil

Blood Blister

Desert Shield

Bird Brain

Canary Corner

Altar of Sacrifice

Basalt 'n' Peppa

Porthole

Shake It Don't Break It

Unknown

Suites of the Carrion Kind

Satan's Wagon

Mandatory Suicide

Where the Sidewalk Ends

Jesus Saves

Satan's Little Helper

The Uprising

Criminally Insane

Steep face climb across from Jesus Saves.

Short & fun--good warm up or beginner route.

This is the super chossy double crack system just to the left of the walk-through to the south side with obvious shiny chain anchors. Fun climb but definitely watch out for loose gravel, rocks, and blocks.

Ample holds with five clips makes this a great beginner lead. Low angle, plenty of holds, but surprisingly little choss for how broken the rock looks. Crux is a blanker section around the fourth bolt.

This route was the original route on Satan's Pillar. It was first climbed in 1948 by Gene and Bill Prater. It was retro-bolted by Jim Yoder in 1999 with the first lead of the bolted version by Helen Shull. This is a fun, easy lead to get to the top of the pillar. 25 feet of vertical, big edges leads to broken terrain at the anchors.

Short, chossy climb. It's most chossy if you start up the left. At the top there are many chalked up X's which you can see from the ground.

Easy climb good for soloing. 3 bolts visible from the ground. Climb up to a landing and walk forward toward a second pillar that has one more bolt and a chain anchor.

Decent short climb on the face of a pillar with a small roof between the first and second bolts.

Beta: Follow the obvious wiggling crack between two basalt columns. Use your hands and feet.

Top out options:

Near the top of the crack you will find a nice ledge system to your right with which you can access the anchors for the "Unknown" 10b/c next door.

OR

Follow the crack to the top, and walk around the formation to your right, flipping your rope over the top of the column, to access the anchors for the "Unknown" 10b/c.

Either way, that's your way off.

(Note: This was not in the Sullivan/Yoder book, nor Whitelaw's Weekend Rock so I'm tossing this name out there. I have not checked other books though and would love a fact check if anyone has the Smoot guide, ect...)

Climb the arete where there's plenty of holds. Easier than Satan's Little Helper.

crux comes right after 2nd bolt after that its all about pump management.

A fun arete.  The first bolt is fairly high, but it felt secure.

high first bolt, good holds though. the crux is a secret of course. Find it on your own

Fun route on an arete featuring solid incut holds and interesting moves for the grade.

This route wasn't listed in the old guide book and thus I didn't know much about it when I climbed it. Maybe the community can pitch in the details! *Updated, thank you Tiffany Samson for name, grade suggestion, and FA. It is a slight overhang jug/crimp haul. It has one distinctive crux near the end after the last bolt. Hint; going left is easier than direct! 5.9+ if you go left at the bulge and 5.10b if you go up straight.

This crack is known as "The Mirror" on the south side.  Finish on "Shake It Don't Break It" anchors.

Overhanging top rope route.  Without using the wall behind it, it feels 5.10b/c. Stemming off the wall behind it make it 5.easy. Both ways of climbing it are fun.

This route is not in the 2019 edition of Sullivan & Yoder's Frenchman Coulee book, however, the route is quite old. The anchor is stacked washers with long chains and TR can be set up by walking around the south side.

Overhanging incut jugs to a typical section where the patina ends on sloping, less secure holds, then up some broken choss to the anchors.

This route ascends the arete and face just to the right of Satan's Little Helper. It is more technical than most Feathers routes with a start on big jugs leading to an airy crux with techy feet.

Feathers' easiest climb--good for first leads or soloing. Low angle featured rock for 3 bolts, then walk 15 feet to the base of the tower and climb slightly harder rock to one bolt and anchors.

Moderate route on typical blocky holds. Pretty fun.

Great climb, straight forward and just keeps going. Use your feet and avoid the pump.

Fun route.  The best part is the crux (between 2nd and 3rd bolt) which is really the only thing that makes it different from the other climbs around it.

The start of the climb is 5.7/8ish, first and second bolts are easy to get to, but a touch up there.  The crux is at the top of the climb at the overhang, but is protected.  After a big mantle at the top, you're done. The rap bolts are a good 15 feet back, bring some long slings if you plan to TR it after lead.  There is chains, but you can downclimb off the back side easy enough

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The North Side